GIFT  OF 


fj 


: 


A  VISIT  TO  JAPAN 


IN  1860 


U.  S.  FRIGATE  "  HARTFORD" 


A  RETURN  FROM    CHINA   BY   THE  U.  S.  S.   FRIGATE  ''NIAGARA" 

TO  ADEN  AND  THENCE  VIA   THE   RED  SEA  AND  EUROPE 

TO  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


H.    P.    BJ^n^-r; 


SAN  FRANCISCO: 

1878. 


WOMEN'S  CO-OPERATIVE  PRINTING  UNION 
424  Montgomery  Street 


U.  S.  8.  SLOOP  OF  WAR,  "  HARTFORD.'' 

October  8th,  1860,  Monday. 
My  very  dear  Mother : 

I  addressed  a  letter  to  you  from  Shanghai 
by  the  last  mail,  in  which  I  advised  my  intended 
departure  for  Nagasaki  and  Kanagawa,  in  this  ship,  a 
guest  of  the  ward-room  officers,  and  I  might  add,  of 
the  captain,  for  it  is  in  his  cabin  where  my  own  state- 
room is  assigned  me.  I  passed  ten  days  at  Shanghai 
in  visiting  and  being  received  by  friends  there  con. 
nected  with  various  commercial  houses,  and  left  with 
regret,  for  I  like  the  people  and  the  place.  Whenever 
the  Chinese  Empire  settles  into  order,  its  government 
becomes  firm  and  universal,  and  trade  assumes  its 
once  universal  importance  and  regularity  throughout 
the  length  and  breadth  of  the  land,  the  rivers  become 
open  to  our  steamers,  and  the  rebellion  subsides, 
Shanghai,  by  its  position,  will  become  the  most  impor- 
tant port.  It  sits  upon  the  Woosung  river,  near  the 
Yang-tze-Kiang,  which  will  float  down  upon  its  bosom, 
ere  many  years,  and  in  our  own  steamers  too,  the 
increasing  products  of  the  most  productive  provinces 
of  the  Central  and  Flowery  Kingdom.  The  mail  which 
went  last,  conveyed  to  you  the  failure  of  the  attempt  at 
double  dealing  on  the  part  of  the  Chinese  commis- 
sioner with  Lord  Elgin  at  Tientsin,  and  the  advance 
to  within  five  miles  of  Pekin,  of  the  English  and  French 
forces,  where,  and  where  alone,  Lord  Eigin  says  he 
will  now  negotiate.  But  now  I  will  turn  to  myself. 


I  came  on  board  this  ship  on  Friday  noon.  We  started 
at  2. P.M.,  and  steamed  down  river,  passing  Woosung 
at  3  P.M.,  and  at  10  P.M.  we  discharged  our  pilot,  and 
were  at  sea.  During  our  trip  down  river,  the  United 
States  steam  dispatch  boat,  "  Saginaw,"  passed  us 
with  Mr.  Ward  on  board.  He  left  an  hour  after  us, 
bound  to  Hong-Kong.  Saturday,  our  first  day  at  sea, 
was  calm  and  delightful,  our  ship  steaming  eight  knots 
per  hour,  no  canvas  set,  through  a  smooth  sea.  I 
will  just  add  here,  that  Nagasaki  is  four  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  from  Shanghai,  and  that  to-day,  at  noon, 
we  were  still  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  distant. 
On  Sunday,  our  second  day,  our  calm  was  interrupted. 
The  pure,  cold  northeast  wind  poured  down  through 
the  straits  of  Corea  the  strength  of  the  monsoon,  and 
with  a  high  sea,  impeded  our  progress,  as  it  was  in 
our  teeth,  exactly.  But  though  the  day  was  so  rough 
as  to  prevent  having  divine  service,  yet  it  was  nothing 
to  the  succeeding  night.  I  think  even  you,  with  all 
your  forbearance  and  patience,  would  have  been 
positively  miserable.  The  fresh  breezes  of  the  day 
increased  at  night  to  a  moderate  gale,  while  the  sea 
rolled  against  our  sides,  causing  the  huge  ship  to 
tremble  and  shake  from  stem  to  stern.  1  slept  upon 
my  stateroom  floor,  for  to  keep  in  my  berth  was  too 
much  of  an  experiment  to  trust  to.  I  made  the  passage 
from  New  York  to  China  without  once  being:  seasick; 
but  I  confess,  last  night  brought  me  to  a  compromise. 
I  was  very  seasick  for  half  an  hour.  To-day,  Monday, 
has  been  quiet,  and  the  ship  moving  gently,  though 
the  northeast  wind  is  too  strong  to  allow  us  to  keep  on 
our  course.  And  now  I  will  speak  of  the  ship. 


She  is  a  fine  model  for  sailing;  and  is  intended  for 
sailing,  not  for  steaming,  though  the  propeller  is  a 
good  one,  yet  only  intended  for  calms  and  to  act  as  an 
auxiliary.  She  is  of  about  eighteen  hundred  tons 
register,  about  230  feet  long.  She  has  on  board  336, 
crew  and  officers,  beside  Mr.  Coolidge  of  Boston,  a 
young  Mr.  Fearing  (a  guest  of  the  midshipmen)  and 
myself.  Commodore,  or  rather  flag-officer  Stribling, 
has  his  cabin  by  himself,  below  on  the  same  deck  with 
the  wardroom  officers.  Captain  Loundes,  an  elderly 
gentleman,  has  his  cabin  on  the  upper  deck;  while 
the  wardroom  below  contains  five  lieutenants,  three 
surgeons,  purser,  master,  commodore's  clerk  (Charles 
Downes)  and  captain  and  sergeant  of  marines.  These 
are  all  very  kind  to  me,  and  do  all  they  can  to  make 
me  a  welcome  and  satisfied  guest.  The  table  is  ex- 
cellent, and  though  all  are  extremely  temperate,  yet 
constant  jollity  and  pleasantry  enlivens  every  meal. 
By  the  way,  the  engineer-in-chief  is  a  wardroom 
officer.  The  crew  is  divided,  as  is  usual  in  a  man-of-war, 
into  bodies  styled  fore,  main  and  mizzen  topmen,  into 
watches  of  ninety  men  each,  and  then  all  are  under  the 
orders,  respectively,  of  the  officer  of  the  deck  or 
lieutenant,  relieved  every  four  hours,  boatswain  and 
captain  of  the  tops.  A  body  of  thirty  marines  are  also 
a  part  of  the  company.  They  dress  on  week  days,  in 
light  blue  trowser  and  jacket,  with  a  glazed  cap  on  the 
front  of  which  is  "  U.  S.  M."  On  Sundays,  at  ten, 
they  appear  at  quarters  in  full  uniform  —  a  flowing 
feather  in  high  hats  and  a  handsome  uniform.  This 
term,  "going  to  quarters, "I  will  explain.  But  first, 
let  me  give  you  the  daily  routine  of  the  ship.  At 
8  A.M.  the  flag  is  hoisted,  while  the  band,  consisting 


6 

of  twelve  pieces,  play  the  "  Star  Spangled  Banner. " 
We  then  breakfast  at  ten  A.M.;  the  drum  rolls  and 
every  one  goes  to  quarters,  that  is,  appear  on  deck, 
the  officers  with  side  arms,  and  the  men  are  ranged 
along  in  their  respective  bodies ;  each  lieutenant  has 
his,  the  engineer  all  his,  except  those  attending  the 
engine;  the  captain  of  marines  has  his  men  drawn 
up  in  a  double  line,  muskets  in  hand;  every  gun  of 
the  battery  has  its  quota  of  men  at  its  station,  twelve 
at  each  ;  the  lieutenants,  the  captain  of  marines  and 
the  chief  engineer  then  step  forward  and  salute  the 
commander,  announcing  his  respective  division  to  be 
in  order  and  present,  which  he,  in  turn,  acknowledges 
by  touching  his  hat.  All  this  time,  perfect  silence  is 
maintained,  and  immediately  the  commander  has  re- 
ceived the  report  of  the  officers,  and  during  this  silence, 
the  chaplain  steps  forward  and  makes  a  prayer,  every 
head,  of  course,  uncovered.  This  over,  the  men  dis- 
perse ;  the  officers  send  their  side  arms  below,  and 
nothing  more  ensues  than  the  ordinary  duties  of  sail- 
ing the  ship,  until  4  P.M.,  when  the  same  is  gone 
through  with.  The  band  then  comes  aft  and  plays  an 
hour,  and  this  finishes  the  day.  Target  practice  at 
sea,  is  very  common,  but  we  have  had  none  as  yet;  the 
weather  being  bad  has  kept  us  back,  and  now  we  have 
no  time  to  stop  the  ship  for  it. 

The  "  Hartford"  can  carry  a  battery  of  twenty-six 
eight-inch  shell  guns,  but  she  has  now  sixteen  nine- 
inch  shell  guns,  weighing  from  nine  to  ten  thousand 
pounds  each — a  beautiful  battery,  and  all  on  the  upper 
or  main  deck. 

I  am  writing  you  while  we  are  moving  on  toward  the 
coast  of  Japan,  at  the  slow  rate  of  seven  miles  per 


hour,  with  contrary  wind.  She  rolls  considerably,  and 
therefore  'tis  not  easy  to  write;  but  I  am  beginning  this 
early,  as  if  we  get  into  Nagasaki,  I  shall  wish  to  have 
a  line  ready  for  you.  So  far  as  I  know  now,  it  is  in- 
tended that  this  ship  shall  remain  at  Nagasaki  four 
days,  then  proceed  in  charge  of  two  government  pilots 
through  what  is  termed  the  "  inland  sea,"  remarkable 
for  the  wonders  of  its  scenery,  to  Kanagawa,  some 
five  hundred  miles,  the  seaport  of,  and  distant  from 
Jeddo  eighteen  miles.  This  remarkable  inland  sea  is 
said  to  take  us  along  the  main  land  and  through  in- 
numerable island  passages,  where  cultivation  on  ail 
sides,  with  high  lands,  render  the  whole  passage  the 
most  beautiful  conceivable.  Charles  Downes,  the  com- 
modore's secretary,  told  me  he  had  told  him  he  should 
anchor  every  night,  and  run  day  times,  in  order  to  see 
the  beauties  of  this  passage.  This  is  one  of  the  ad- 
vantages I  possess  in  being  in  this  ship.  It  is  expected 
that  the  "  Niagara"  will  soon  reach  Kanagawa  with 
the  Japanese  commissioners,  and  very  probably  a  party 
will  then  be  invited  to  go  to  Jeddo.  If  so,  I  trust  I 
may  be  one.  You  may  not,  however,  be  aware  that 
though  the  respective  ministers  reside  at  Jeddo,  yet 
no  citizens  of  any  country  are  allowed  to  go  up,  except 
by  invitation  of  the  minister.  Eeport  says,  that  our 
minister  lives  at  Jeddo,  in  a  state  of  inebriety  and  im- 
morality, which,  with  the  advantage  of  seclusion  from 
his  countrymen,  affords  him  additional  ground  for  re- 
fusing to  invite  or  see  them. 

I  might  have  said  that  on  the  first  afternoon  of  our 
being  at  sea,  just  at  sundown,  the  shrill  whistle  of  the 
mate,  followed  by  the  hoarse  roar  of  the  boatswain's, 
"All  hands  attend  to  bury  the  dead,"  resounded  fore 


and  aft.  Every  one  was  present  whose  duty  could  be 
set  aside,  service  read,  and  the  body  slid  into  the  blue 
sea,  which  closed  over  it. 

Mr.  Coolidge  I  find  a  delightful  man,  and  have  had 
many  an  hour  pacing  the  deck  or  sitting  in  conversa- 
tion with  him.  He  says  he  belongs  to  a  Wednesday 
club  with  Dr.  Homans,  but  as  he  is  away  so  much,  I 
should  think  he  could  seldom  be  present  at  it.  He 
left  home  last  May. 

I  hope  the  "  Judge  Shaw  "  arrived  all  right,  with 
those  toilet  sets,  unbroken;  if  not,  I  shall  be  furious. 
Ain't  you  afraid  ?  Well,  I  must  stop.  I  have  been 
writing  in  the  first  lieutenant's  room.  I  will  go  up 
now,  have  a  chat  with  the  commander  and  turn  in,  as 
we  say.  I  hope  not  only  you  and  all  our  family,  but 
also  that  uncle  George  is  well. 

October  10th.  I  wrote  the  last  two  leaves  at  sea, 
this  one  1  commence  in  the  harbor  of  Nagasaki,  at  but 
9  P.M.,  after  having  been  at  anchor  a  day  and  a  night. 
We  arrived  here  last  evening,  at  7  P.M.,  (the  9th). 
The  harbor  entrance  is  narrow  and  beautiful,  the  land 
high  on  either  hand,  and  cultivated  from  the  edge 
of  the  sea  to  a  thousand  feet  up  the  highlands. 
Every  hill,  every  foot  of  soil,  everywhere  is  cultivated 
in  beds  or  patches,  except  at  the  tops  of  the  moun- 
tains, where  woods  are  permitted  to  grow.  As  we 
entered  the  harbor,  we  passed  the  cliffs,  where,  in 
1500,  many  thousands  of  Christians  perished  in  being 
hurled  down  by  order  of  the  government;  that  was 
when  800,000  Christians  were  destroyed  in  Japan. 
This,  too,  is  the  city  where  the  poor  Macao  catholics 
in  1520,  were  beheaded  ;  a  scene  represented  by  the 
old  painting  now  in  Macao,  of  which  I  have  written 


9 

you  before.  As  we  first  made  the  land  we  discovered 
the  fact  of  great  depth  of  water,  bold  shores  and  vol- 
canic character  of  the  hills ;  in  fact,  we  saw  a  hill 
upon  an  island,  emitting  smoke,  where,  'tis  said,  some 
fourteen  volcanoes  exist.  You  can,  perhaps,  under- 
stand the  feeling  that  came  over  me,  when  last  evening 
our  anchor  dropped  from  this  beautiful  ship  into  this 
beautiful  harbor.  The  idea  that  I  was  in  Japan,  in  a 
port  known  to  the  Dutch  for  two  centuries,  I  could  not 
realize.  Of  course,  'twas  too  late  last  evening  to  go  on 
shore,  so  we  waited  until  this  A.M.  at  10.  The  captain 
of  a  Russian  man-of-war  called  last  evening,  also  a 
Dutch  lieutenant  and  a  messenger  from  the  English 
consul. 

This  morning,  at  quarter  before  nine,  the  Dutch  sa- 
luted us,  and  at  nine  the  Russians ;  both  salutes  we 
immediately  returned — twenty-six  guns.  At  10  A.M., 
Mr.  Coolidge,  myself  and  six  wardroom  officers  took  the 
third  cutter  and  were  pulled  ashore  by  a  man-of-war's 
crew  of  twelve  men.  Here  we  received  our  first  im- 
pressions of  Japan  and  the  Japanese.  We  visited  Nag- 
asaki, as  also  the  Dutch  settlement  known  as  Decima. 
This  Decima  is  the  island  which  the  Dutch,  for  two 
centuries,  have  been  allowed  to  land  upon,  when  their 
one  vessel  a  year  came  from  Holland  to  Japan;  and  I 
have  to-day  walked  over  that  identical  stone  bridge, 
which  connects  the  island  with  Nagasaki,  and  which 
you  may  recollect  old  Mr.  Gregerson  once  said  at  our 
house  he  had  crossed,  when  a  boy  at  sea — as  a  cabin 
boy  in  a  Dutch  ship — in  the  capacity  of  servant  to  the 
captain.  'Tis  a  short  bridge,  only  fifty  feet  wide  and 
as  long,  but  'tis  remarkable  when  you  contrast  the  re- 
straint once  laid  upon  foreigners  in  crossing  it,  who 


10 

five  years  ago  would  have  met  death  in  attempting  it, 
and  to-day  we  have  been  all  over  the  town.  We  visited 
the  stores  of  lacquered  ware  and  china  ware,  and  also 
shops  containing  silk  and  cotton  goods.  Their  pro- 
ducts are  fair.  Strangers  have  to  change  their  Mexi- 
can silver  dollars  at  their  custom  house  into  the  sil- 
ver coin  of  their  country,  in  order  to  buy  the  least 
thing.  Well,  what  shall  I  say  of  the  Japanese  ?  They 
beat  all  my  comprehension.  No  nation  are  like  them. 
Their  streets  are  clean  and  neat.  Military  stations  are 
frequent,  and  double-sword  officers  are  constantly 
passing  by.  But  the  customs  of  the  people  are  an- 
tagonistic to  our  own  as  much  as  possible.  For  in- 
stance, we  visited  in  our  walks,  public  bath-houses, 
where  men  and  women,  old  and  young,  were  promis- 
cuously bathing  together.  Not  as  at  Cape  May  or 
Newport,  but  lacking  the  bathing  dress.  I  infer  that 
the  law  of  decency  or  virtue  is  unknown  here  except 
after  marriage.  'Tis  the  rule  here  that  females  are  to 
have  lovers,  many  or  few,  until  marriage,  but  if  after 
marriage  any  dereliction  from  the  marriage  vow  be 
proved  or  be  known,  the  neighbors  come  in  and  put 
an  end  to  the  woman.  At  3  P.M.,  to-day,  we  returned 
to  the  ship.  I  had  dinner,  and  at  four  took  a  nap,  but 
the  band  aroused  me,  and  I  wound  up  the  day  with  a 
long  yarn  on  deck  with  Mr.  Coolidge.  I  have  a  letter 
of  introduction  to  Dent  &  Co.'s  agents  here,  but  have 
not  presented  it;  shall  do  so  to-morrow. 

October  llth.  I  have  been  ashore  to-day,  and  pre- 
sented my  letter  of  introduction  as  I  proposed,  re- 
ceived kindly  and  invited  to  visit,  &c.,  &c.  I  am  gen- 
erally adverse  to  letters  of  introduction,  and  prefer  a 
letter  of  credit,  which  is  a  pretty  sure  passport  any- 


11 

where.  I  have  bought  here  only  a  piece  of  eighteen  yards 
of  silk,  and  a  piece  of  twenty  yards  of  crape,  intended 
as  material  for  dressing-gown  and  lining  for  your  good 
self;  also,  two  or  three  dozen  cups  and  saucers  of 
wafer  porcelain,  to  send  home.  Kanagawa  is  the  place 
to  buy  at.  I  write  this  to-night,  as  a  vessel  leaves  for 
Hong-Kong  on  Saturday  (day  after  to-morrow),  and 
will  probably  arrive  there  in  time  to  place  our  letters 
in  the  out-going  mail  of  Oct.  25th.  If  my  friends  ex- 
pect letters  from  me,  you  had  better  give  them  this 
one  to  read.  Give  my  love  to  father,  the  girls  and 
George.  We  leave  here,  via  the  inland  soa,  for  Osaca 
and  Kanagawa,  in  about  five  days.  I  cannot  say  how 
long  I  shall  stay  at  the  latter  place,  but  probably  a 
fortnight  or  three  weeks,  including  the  expected  Jed- 
do  trip,  if  we  find  the  "  Niagara's  "  party  and  Japanese 
Commissioners  going  up.  I  trust  1  shall  return  to 
Hong-Kong  in  this  ship,  or  by  sailing  vessel,  and  be 
there  before  the  latter  end  of  November.  If  nothing  of 
a  business  nature  keeps  me  longer,  I  shall  pass  only  a 
week  or  two  there,  and  then  push  on  for  the  United 
States  and  home. 

Your  affectionate  Bon, 
HENRY. 


[OVERLAND.] 

{U.  S.  S.  "HARTFORD"  AT  ANCHOR  AMONG) 
THE  ISLANDS  AT  THE  ENTRANCE  OP  THE  V 
INLAND  SEA,  ON  THE  COAST  or  JAPAN,  j 

Wednesday  Evening,  October  17,  1860. 
My  very  dear  Mother : 

We  left  Nagasaki  this  morning  at  eight 
o'clock,  and  have  been  running  all  day  under  sail  and 
steam,  having  made,  say,  one  hundred  miles.  We  are 
bound  to  Kanagawa,  but  instead  of  going  outside  along 
the  northeast  coast,  we  steer  west  for  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles,  and  then  enter  a  narrow  inland  sea,  and 
proceed  east  toward  our  point.  We  go  this  way 
because  no  ship  of  war  has  yet  been  through;  also, 
because  there  are  one  or  two  important  cities  to  see, 
and  perhaps  touch  at,  on  the  way;  and  also,  because 
'tis  said  to  excel  in  the  beauty  of  its  scenery,  any  other 
passage  known.  To-day,  we  have  been  among  islands, 
and  along  close  into  the  mainland  ;  near  enough  to 
swim  ashore,  all  most  elaborately  cultivated ;  you  can 
form  no  idea  of  it  from  my  description.  To-night,  as 
we  were  at  tea,  joking  and  enjoying  supper,  our  fine 
ship  struck  on  a  reef  twice,  and  gave  us  symptoms  of 
immediate  shipwreck.  We  were  running  at  half  speed, 
but  with  the  swell  of  the  sea  and  impetus  of  our  going, 
shot  us  over  the  reef.  Had  it  been  a  foot  higher,  our 
ship  would  have  been  probably  lost  upon  it.  No  one 
knows  the  peculiar  sensation  of  a  long  heavy  ship,  like 
this,  striking  when  you  are  underway  and  least  ex- 


14 

pect  it.  We  anchored  in  ten  minutes  after,  and  here 
we  lay  for  the  night.  I  suppose  we  shall  be  seven  or 
eight  days  going  to  Kanagawa,  as  we  have  to  anchor 
every  night.  We  have  two  Japanese  pilots  on  board, 
but  they  cannot  see  at  night  among  islands  and  shoals. 
We  have  to-day  passed  the  most  remarkable  island; 
it  is  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  only  sixty  feet  across 
at  the  base,  with  a  hole  through  it,  forming  as  perfect 
an  arch  as  ever  was  built  by  man.  Tis  volcanic,  as 
are  many  of  the  islands  you  see  here.  This  was 
evidently  a  jet  of  lava  thrown  up  out  of  the  sea,  and 
cooled  as  it  stands.  You  have  no  idea  how  deep  the 
water  is,  close  in  with  the  shore  of  the  islands;  it  is  as 
perfect  blue  as  it  is  outside.  I  think  I  shall  now  retire 
for  the  night. 

October  18th,  8  P.M.  This  morning  at  six  o'clock 
I  was  on  deck,  and  found  the  watch  lifting  the  anchor 
while  the  band  was  playing  for  them.  It  is  customary  in 
a  man-of-war,  for  the  band  to  play  a  lively  air  when  the 
crew  have  such  work  to  do;  they  keep  step  to  it  as  they 
use  the  capstan  bars.  We  were  soon  on  our  way  again, 
with  a  fresh  breeze;  as  the  day  advanced,  it  increased 
to  a  heavy  northwest  gale;  and  after  running  all  day 
through  straits,  among  beautifully  cultivated  islands, 
etc.,  the  wind  howling,  and  sea  white  as  a  cotton  field, 
we  anchored  close  to  a  large  city  at  four  this  afternoon. 
We  then  went  ashore  in  two  boats  to  see  the  extensive 
city,  not  knowing  whether  the  people  would  allow  us 
to  land  or  not.  As  we  approached  in  the  boats,  the 
whole  city  front  seemed  alive  with  people;  we  landed 
and  were  not  molested,  though  I  suppose  no  foreigner 
ever  set  foot  there  before;  a  body  of  police  took  us  in 
charge,  showed  us  the  city,  its  temples,  etc.,  etc.,  and 


15 

watched  us  and  the  populace,  which  thronged  the 
streets,  with  equal  attention.  No  noise,  or  talk,  or 
disturbance  took  place.  We  threw  a  few  pieces  of 
silver  among  the  crowd,  but  in  one  instance  it  was 
picked  up  by  the  police,  and  returned  to  us.  They 
would  not,  at  the  shops,  sell  us  anything  if  they  could 
help  it.  While  writing  here,  one  of  our  officers  has 
just  brought  me  in  a  teapot  as  a  present,  which  he 
bought  on  shore  at*  sundown;  we  came  off  to  the  ship, 
the  wind  blowing  a  gale  even  in  this  sheltered  spot 
under  the  highlands,  and  tide  running  very  strongly. 
Really  our  experiment  proved  a  happy  one,  for  we 
did  not  know  if  the  people  would  allow  us  to  come  on 
shore.  I  shall  now  leave  my  letter  to  relate  future 
progress  in  after  a  while.  We  get  our  anchor  up  in  the 
morning  so  as  to  start  by  daylight,  or  a  little  after. 
You  are  at  once  struck  with  the  strict  obedience  of 
the  people  to  their  superiors  and  officers.  No  one 
seems  to  venture  to  a  say  a  word,  if  a  policeman 
commands  silence.  Streets  are  neat  and  clean;  so  are 
the  houses.  Our  interpreter  told  the  chief  functionary 
that  we  were  American  officers  of  a  U.  8.  man-of-war, 
and  merely  wished  to  see  their  city;  the  officers  had 
not  even  side  arms.  To-day  two  of  the  officers  told  me 
I  must  continue  their  guest  in  the  ship,  not  only  to 
Kanagawa  and  Jeddo,  but  return  to  Hong-Kong.  I, 
of  course,  shall  be  happy  to  continue  in  the  ship,  but 
it  seems  like  using  a  friend  to  avail  of  such  an  offer. 
I  expect,  however,  I  shall  return  to  Hong-Kong  in  her; 
she  is  a  noble  ship.  We  took  (or  rather  the  Com- 
modore took)  two  more  passengers  at  Nagasaki;  the 
Consul  there  and  a  Missionary;  both  for  Kanagawa; 
the  latter  speaks  Japanese,  and  he  acts  as  interpreter 


16 

to  the  pilots.  I  expected  the  captain  would  want  my 
room  for  one  of  them;  I  offered  it,  but  the  old  captain 
said,  "  No,  sir;  I  gave  you  the  room,  and  you  are  to 
continue  to  occupy  it;  these  men  can  sleep  where  they 
can  best  find  room."  My  room  is  nearly  as  large  as 
your  little  front  room  up  stairs,  where  I  used  to  sleep 
when  a  boy.  A  fine  black  walnut  bedstead,  a  French 
mode,  a  ditto  bureau  and  writing  desk,  a  mirror, 
curtains  and  Venetians,  library  and  room  for  two  trunks, 
chair,  washstand,  etc.,  etc. ;  the  floor  has  a  nice  Brussels 
carpet  upon  it,  and  everything  new,  of  course,  because 
'tis  the  ship's  first  cruise.  I  cannot  understand  how  it 
is  that  I  was  so  fortunate  as  to  have  such  a  conveyance 
for  such  a  trip.  Well,  I  will  write  no  more  until 
to-morrow.  Mr.  Coolidge  has  just  looked  in,  and  said 
good-night. 

October  19,  9  P.M.  I  have  been  in  Charles  Downes' 
room  all  the  evening,  he  being  sick.  We  again  lifted 
our  anchor  this  morning,  and  started  on  our  way.  We 
have  run  all  day  with  a  fine,  fair  wind,  through  a  smooth 
sea  dotted  with  islands.  To-night,  at  7  P.M.  we  dropped 
anchor  between  two  islands,  where  we  now  are  at 
anchor,  "laid  remote  from  home."  A  most  remark- 
able sea  is  this  indeed;  one  might  rather  call  the 
passage  a  long  strait.  The  usual  routine  has  been 
gone  through  with — eating,  music,  quarters,  promenad- 
ing, talking,  reading,  etc.,  etc.  I  cannot  realize  I  am 
in  this  quarter  of  the  globe,  except  when  I  am  on 
shore.  I  will  defer  writing  more  until  to-morrow. 

October  20th,  Sunday.  Were  I  at  home  to-day,  and  at 
this  hour,  I  should  probably  be  with  you  at  church; 
but  as  I  am  here  on  board  a  man-of-war,  I  will  do  the 
next  best  thing,  which  is  to  write  you  a  few  lines.  We 


17 

are  sailing  and  steaming  along  while  I  write,  about 
seven  miles  an  hour;  'tis  a  cold,  raw,  drizzly  Sunday 
morning,  but  we  on  board  have  had  a  good  hot 
breakfast,  and  are  as  comfortable  as  mice  with  cheese. 
Last  evening  at  eight,  a  boat  came  off  to  us  from  a 
city,  while  we  were  at  anchor,  having  four  men  who 
said  they  had  been  sent  to  knoj^r  if  the  Prince  of  the 
place  could  send  any  supplies  of  firewood  or  water  to 
us,  or  if  we  required  anything.  We  told  him  no;  that 
we  were  bound  from  Nagasaki  to  Jeddo,  etc.,  etc. 
These  fellows  on  coming  upon  the  deck,  all  got  upon 
their  knees,  and  bumped  their  foreheads  upon  the 
deck  as  a  salutation.  We  showed  them  all  about  the 
ship,  and  I  took  them  into  my  room;  they  seemed 
amazed  at  everything  they  saw.  They  went  into  the 
engine  room  below,  and  seemed  surprised  to  see  such 
strange  sights  as  this  ship  afforded.  Just  as  they  were 
going  away,  they  again  asked  if  nothing  could  be  sent 
to  us.  One  of  us  told  him  in  fun,  to  send  us  a  fish  in 
the  morning  for  each  man;  he  said  yes,  he  could,  but 
he  changed  his  mind,  when  we  told  him  we  had  336 
people  on  board.  I  shall  continue  my  letter  now 
directed  to  father. 

Your  affectionate  Son, 

HENRY. 


I  OVERLAND.  ] 

(U.  8.  S.  S.  "HARTFOBD,"  Sunday,  Oct.  21,  1860. ) 

AT  ANCHOR  IN   THE   INLAND    SEA   OF   JAPAN,    OFF  > 

(     THE  CITY  OF  TOGO  (OR  HIOGO.)  j 

My  very  dear  Father: 

I  continue  my  letter  from  my  mother's. 
The  last  few  days  I  have  been  writing  to  her,  until  my 
sheet  is  full;  and  I  therefore  renew  in  this,  the  narra- 
tive of  my  criuse.  It  is  Sunday  evening;  we  have  been 
running  all  day,  but  anchored  at  dark  off  a  city  called 
Yogo,  one  of  the  ports  named  in  our  treaty  to  be  opened 
to  us  in  1862.  I  have  not  seen  the  place  yet,  as  I  was  tak- 
ing a  Sunday  nap  at  dark;  but  directly  went  on  deck,  and 
could  only  discern  through  the  foggy  mist  about  us,  a 
fleet  of  junks.  I  expect  to-morrow  we  shall  go  ashore 
for  an  hour  or  two;  if  so,  I  will  on  my  return,  jot  down 
what  we  saw.  I  cannot  realize  that  we  are  here :  in  a 
fine,  armed  ship,  with  intelligent  and  able  men  to  care 
for  her  by  night  and  day;  a  table  which  supplies  every- 
thing for  our  fare  which  this  quarter  of  the  world  will 
supply.  All  that  I  have  to  do  is  to  make  myself  com- 
fortable and  agreeable.  No  such  opportunity  will  soon 
again  fall  to  the  lot  of  any  man  to  visit  these  seas  and 
this  remarkable  country.  I  have  made  a  mistake  in 
dating  my  letter  to  mother  all  along;  it  should  be  one 
day  later,  as  I  find  to-day  is  the  21st  instead  of  the 
20th,  as  I  have  named  in  hers. 

Tuesday,  October  23d.     Yesterday  morning  at  day- 
light, our  ship  was  surrounded  by  Japanese  boats  filled 


20 

with  men  and  women;  many  of  the  former  came  on 
board;  you  can  have  no  idea  of  the  curiosity  displayed 
by  them.  The  evening  before,  our  commodore  sent  his 
card  by  some  Japanese  to  be  forwarded  to  the  city 
of  Osaca,  twenty-five  miles  farther  on;  at  ten  o'clock 
yesterday  we  landed.  The  barge  containing  the  com- 
modore led  the  way,  carrying  the  ensign  in  the  stern, 
and  the  blue  flag  forward;  next  came  the  captain's 
boat  in  which  I  had  a  seat,  and  the  third  boat  contained 
the  other  officers  from  the  midshipmen's  mess.  We 
were  received  by  the  police  as  usual.  Our  officers  had 
side  arms;  the  police  had  single  swords.  We  visited 
temples,  stores,  etc.,  and  after  being  ashore  two  hours, 
went  aboard  at  noon;  got  our  anchor,  and  left  for  Osaca. 
twenty-five  miles.  Here  we  anchored  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  and  received  during  the  rest  of  the  day  and 
night,  visits  from  the  Japanese.  I  had  supposed  thab 
to-day  the  boats  would  be  manned,  and  we  should  go 
up  to  this  famous  city,  distant  seven  miles;  but  while 
I  was  dressing  this  morning,  I  heard  the  orderly  walk 
in  and  speak  to  the  captain  through  his  door — "the 
commodore  desires  steam  as  soon  as  possible,  and  the 
ship  got  underway.'7  I  expect  the  old  gentleman 
was  angry  with  the  Japanese  for  having  taken  so  little 
notice  of  his  coming;  at  any  rate,  while  I  write  it  is 
noon,  and  we  are  just  emerging  from  the  inland  sea 
and  the  anchorage  off  Osaca,  out  upon  the  open  sea 
on  the  coast  of  Niphon ,  bound  up  to  Kanagawa,  the  sea- 
port of  Jeddo,  distant  three  hundred  miles;  we  are 
steamiag  from  eight  to  nine  knots.  I  trust  we  shall 
return  to  Osaca,  as  it  is  important  that  these  Japanese 
may  not  be  led  to  think  that  by  our  going  away  we  were 
afraid  to  land.  Osaca  is  a  city  of  seven  to  eight  hun- 


21 

dred  thousand  people  or  more;  it  is  a  third  one  in  the 
empire,  contains  many  extensive  palaces  and  temples, 
and  should  be  visited  by  us  no  doubt.  For  years  it  was 
the  residence  of  the  missionaries  from  Portugal — 
Jesuits — until  their  destruction  by  the  Japanese  decrees 
against  Christianity,  in  the  seventeenth  century.  Bud- 
hism  is  the  religion  of  the  Japanese  generally.  We  saw 
at  Togo  or  Hiogo.  some  of  the  largest  men  I  ever  saw. 
October  24th,  7  P.M.  Sixty  miles  distant  from  Kana- 
gawa.  We  are  steaming  up  the  bay  which  leads  to 
Kanagawa.  Yesterday  afternoon  we  got  out  into  open 
sea,  upon  the  coast,  a  blowy,  drizzly  day;  at  night  the 
wind  increased,  and  we  realized  by  the  lurching  of  the 
ship  and  the  piping  of  the  wind,  the  truth  of  the  stories 
which  are  told  of  the  weather  here.  By  10  P.M.,  the 
ship  was  going  thirteen  knots,  and  the  wind  blowing 
a  gale.  At  11  P.M.,  the  Japanese  pilot  desired  the  ship 
kept  out  farther  from  the  coast,  as  he  said  reefs  made 
out  a  long  way;  of  course  we  steered  as  he  directed. 
We  got  roughly  handled,  but  to-day  we  got  into  this 
bay  again,  and  have  been  running  into  smoother  water. 
At  eleven  this  forenoon,  we  made  the  mountain  of 
Fusi-Yaina,  13,000  feet  high;  its  summit  covered  with 
drifted  snow — a  beautiful  sight — as  its  top  peered  out 
above  all  the  cloud,  snow-clad,  against  the  clear,  blue 
sky.  This  afternoon  we  passed  a  volcanic  island  on 
our  starboard  hand,  which  was  smoking  freely.  We 
have  just  passed  this  afternoon  the  city  of  Sirnoacla, 
where  in  1858,  a  Eussian  frigate  was  lost  with  all 
hands,  in  an  earthquake  in  the  harbor.  This  city  lies 
near  the  foot  of  the  mountain  I  referred  to.  You  can- 
not conceive  the  relief  it  is  to  be  on  an  even  keel  again, 
after  being  pitched  and  rolled  about  in  a  blow;  another 


22 

thing  about  it  is,  that  these  seas  are  none  too  well  sur- 
veyed; and  on  a  volcanic  coast  like  this,  one  might  find 
land  in  open  sea.  Well  I  will  leave  this  now,  until  we 
reach  Kanagawa. 

Sunday,  28th  Oct.,  at  Kanagawa,  U.  S.  Consulate. 

Here  I  am  living  with  E.  M.  Dorr,  consul  here,  at 
his  residence  in  Kanagawa.  We  arrived  on  the  25th. 
Dorr  came  on  board  that  evening,  officially,  to  call  on 
the  commodore,  and  urged  me  to  go  to  his  house  that 
evening,  but  I  did  not  until  next  day.  On  the  26th  I 
landed  here  with  the  commodore,  captain,  the  flag-lieu- 
tenant and  Mr.  Coolidge;  called  on  Dorr  and  three  mis- 
sionary families,  and  took  up  my  room  here.  Dorr  has 
the  best  house  in  Japan.  You  cannot  imagine  how 
oriental  everything  about  it  appears. 

I  intended  to  have  gone  on  board  the  "  Hartford'1 
to-day,  to  attend  service,  but  owing  to  a  rain  storm,  I 
abandoned  it,  knowing  that  no  service  would  be  held. 
Kanagawa  is  in  the  bay  of  Jeddo,  occupied  only  by 
the  Japanese,  say  80,000,  and  the  consuls  of  the 
three  treaty  powers.  Trade  is  carried  on  at  Yokahama, 
four  miles  below  ;  no  merchant  can  live  at  Kanagawa. 
Dorr  lives  in  an  old  temple  converted  into  a  fine  house. 
Six  missionary  families  also  live  close  to  the  consuls. 
The  country  is  perfection;  soil  rich  and  most  elabo- 
rately cultivated.  I  have  been  the  past  two  days  over 
to  Yokohama — every  morning  about  ten,  and  return  at 
3  P.M.  ,  to  make  purchases.  The  display  of  goods  there 
is  really  worth  seeing.  I  met  many  friends  over  there 
who  offered  me  rooms  and  chow-chow,  if  I  would  stay 
with  them.  I  met  yesterday  the  Dutch  and  English 
consuls  and  French  minister  at  the  house  of  the  Dutch 
consul. 


23 

V 

Thursday,  1st  Nov.,  12  M.  Here  we  are  at  anchor 
six  miles  distant  from  the  city  of  Jeddo,  that  immense 
city,  which  so  few  Europeans  have  ever  to  this  day 
beheld.  We  can  approach  no  nearer  with  our  ship, 
owing  to  want  of  water.  On  our  port  side  lies  the 
Prussian  frigate,  "Arcona,"  and  on  the  starboard  the 
Prussian  frigate,  "Thetis";  the  former  the  flag-ship 
of  the  minister  who  is  trying  to  negotiate  a  treaty  with 
the  Japanese.  But  I  must  go  back  a  little.  Last 
Tuesday  evening,  at  Kanagawa,.  the  Dutch  consul  and 
two  of  our  lieutenants  dined  at  Dorr's.  Wednesday, 
the  commodore  had  a  reception  at  Dorr's  at  noon,  and 
sixty  people,  principally  Americans,  came.  We  had  a 
feast,  dancing,  &c.,  until  six  P.M.,  when  the  visitors 
dispersed.  We  then  had  a  quiet  dinner  party  among 
ourselves,  consisting  of  Dorr,  the  commodore,  his  flag- 
lieutenant  and  my  self;  also,  the  doctor  or  surgeon.  At 
10  P.M.,  we  left  the  commodore  to  go  to  bed,  and  took 
the  band  to  go  serenading.  Imagine  us  going  through 
streets  with  sixteen  lantern-bearers  before  us,  each 
lantern  being  a  transparency  on  a  pole,  striped  alter- 
nate red  and  blue,  with  the  stars  on  one  side  and  the 
eagle  on  the  other,  representing  the  American  flag; 
then  ourselves,  then  the  band  playing  and  then  about 
5,000  Japanese,  principally  women,  all  perfectly  de- 
lighted and  blocking  up  the  road  as  far  as  we  could 
see  back.  With  this  escort  we  went  to  the  English 
consul,  then  to  the  French  minister,  then  to  the 
missionaries,  especially  to  one  place  to  serenade  a 
young  lady,  a  daughter  of  a  missionary.  We  got 
through  at  midnight.  At  seven  the  next  morning,  I 
took  a  boat  for  the  ship,  and  at  nine,  we  were  off  for 
the  city  of  Jeddo.  In  three  hours  we  reached  the 


24 

city  front,  where  we  now  lay,  four  miles  distant.  I 
did  not  go  on  shore  that  day,  being  too  far  to  pull 
up  and  back;  but  yesterday  I  went.  Of  course,  to  de- 
scribe the  city,  I  cannot,  It  is,  I  judge,  some  fifteen 
or  twenty  miles  long  by  six  miles  deep,  and  contains 
anywhere  from  five  to  ten  millions  of  people;  nearer 
ten  than  five,  I  should  say.  We  went  to  a  hill  in  the 
city,  from  which  we  took  a  survey  over  its  whole  ex- 
tent. The  palace  of  the  Tycoon  emperor  is  in  the 
centre  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  two  walls,  and  cov- 
ering about  as  much  area  as  Boston  Common,  say 
forty  acres;  the  whole  is  surrounded  by  a  broad 
moat.  The  city  residences  of  the  Damioes,  or  heredi- 
tary princes,  are  all  over  the  city,  and  occupy  much 
ground.  Its  temples  are  very  numerous,  and  placed 
on  all  the  hills  and  most  beautiful  spots.  Some  parts 
of  the  city  are  magnificent,  fine,  wide  roads  to  ride 
over  and  ample  room,  while  in  other  sections,  narrow 
streets  and  a  denseness  of  people  render  walking  or 
riding  alike  disagreeable.  The  people  seem  well  dis- 
posed, but  still  the  soldiers  and  followers  of  the  Da- 
mioes often  are  to  be  met  inflamed  with  sacke,  (or  wine 
made  from  rice),  and  these  are  most  hostile  towards  all 
foreigners.  We  leave  for  Kanagawa  to-morrow  morn- 
ing, to-day  being  Sunday,  the  4th — and  we  leaving  to- 
morrow makes  five  days  which  we  have  been  at  an- 
chor here.  We  are  to  touch  at  Kanagawa  for  a  day, 
and  then  proceed  to  Hong-Kong.  Commodore  Strib- 
ling,  his  flag  lieutenant  and  Mr.  Coolidge  left  the  ship 
when  we  were  at  Kanagawa,  and  rode  up  to  Jeddo  by 
land  and  took  up  quarters  at  Mr.  Harris',  the  minis- 
ter. Dorr  offered  me  a  horse  to  make  one  of  this 
party,  which  had  I  accepted,  I  suppose  I  should  have 


25 

stayed  at  Harris';  but  1  preferred  to  come  up  by  ship* 
only  twelve  miles.  All  together,  this  cruise  so  far  has 
been  so  novel,  so  pleasant,  so  full  of  interest  and  ac- 
complished in  so  short  a  time,  as  to  render  it  quite  an 
event  in  my  experience,  and  one  which  I  would  not 
have  missed  for  a  great  deal  of  money.  Let  me  advise 
you  to  purchase  "Hildreth's  Japan,"  an  authentic  and 
quite  a  reliable  book,  full  of  interest  and  fact.  I  have 
written  this  letter  to  mother  and  yourself  most  care- 
lessly, at  all  hours,  in  all  places,  and  under  all  circum- 
stances of  smooth  and  rough  weather,  badly  punctu- 
ated and  unfit  to  be  read  except  by  those  at  home,  who 
make  allowance  for  my  mistakes  under  such  circum- 
stances. I  shall  leave  it  now  to  attend  Divine  Service 
on  deck.  Oh  !  I  find  'tis  raining;  so  we  are  at  home, 
no  service.  The  city  of  Jeddo,  seven  years  ago,  was 
one-fourth  destroyed,  with  one-fourth  its  entire  popu- 
lation/ by  an  earthquake.  They  visit  this  place  regu- 
larly every  seven  years.  I  presume  nowhere  in  the 
world  are  they  more  severe. 

Tuesday,  the  6th,  7  P.M.,  at  sea.  We  left  Jeddo 
yesterday,  at  9  A.M.,  and  anchored  at  Kanagawa  in 
three  hours  after.  I  passad  last  night  on  shore  at 
Dorr's,  dined  there,  where  I  met  at  dinner  the  commo- 
dore of  the  Prussian  squadron,  our  consul  from  Haka- 
dadi  and  the  interpreter  at  the  legation  of  the  U.  8.  at 
Jeddo.  After  dinner,  say  at  midnight,  I  retired,  and 
arose  this  morning  at  seven,  took  a  boat  at  once  and 
reached  our  ship  at  eight — our  hour  for  sailing  being 
nine.  We  left  this  morning  about  eleven  o'clock,  and 
are  now  steaming  and  sailing  for  Hong-Kong.  We  have 
just  got  out  of  the  bay,  I  believe,  into  open  sea.  Passed 
a  volcanic  island  to-day,  which  was  smoking  at  its 


26 

crater.  Mr.  Coolidge  is  still  on  board.  Yesterday,  as 
we  were  coming  from  Jeddo  to  Kanagawa,  we  met  the 
U.  S.  dispatch  boat,  "Saganaw,"  with  the  mails  from 
Hong-Kong  for  this  ship.  She  reports  the  "Niagara" 
at  Hong-Kong.  We  have  just  missed  her.  We  may 
meet  her  to-morrow,  as  she  is  now  eight  days  out  from 
there,  bound  up  here.  I  received  no  letters,  as  I  or- 
dered them  kept  at  Hong-Kong.  The  Dutch  bark, 
which  Edward  Gassett  took  passage  in  for  Kauagawa, 
was  wrecked  seven  days  out  from  Hong-Kong,  and- 
poor  Gassetfc  was  nine  days  in  a  boat  on  four  spoons- 
full  of  water  a  day.  I  wrote  you  some  time  ago  that 
he  asked  me  to  go  with  him,  and  that  I  would  have 
gone  had'I  been  at  liberty,  but,  having  a  little  business, 
I  could  not  get  off  in  time,  so  I  took  steamer  to  Shang- 
hai, instead  of  beating  up  in  his  bark. 

7th  Nov.,  8  P.M.  I  was  wrong  in  writing  yesterday 
that  we  had  run  out  of  the  bay  and  were  in  open  sea, 
We  took  a  north-west  gale  yesterday  at  4  P.M.,  and 
tumbled  about  all  night,  rolling  and  plunging  fright- 
fully among  islands  and  reefs,  not  correctly  laid  down 
on  charts.  'Twas  the  worst  night  I  have  ever  seen  at 
sea,  I  think ;  even  our  good  commodore  was  on  deck 
a  great  deal  during  the  night.  Fortunately  it  was 
moonlight.  It  has  not  moderated  much  yet,  having 
been  blowing  now  for  twenty-four  hours,  but  the  ship 
is  easier.  I  got  no  sleep  last  night,  but  took  three  hours 
in  cat  naps  to-day.  Even  now  while  I  write,  the  ship 
is  rolling,  a  high,  turbulent  sea  running,  three  double- 
reefed  topsails  and  a  foresail,  is  about  the  bulk  of  our 
canvas.  Weather  cold  and  clear.  I  shall  leave  you 
now  to  try  and  get  a  nap. 


27 

Sunday  evening,  llth  November.  I  left  writing 
four  days  ago,  just  after  a  gale  of  wind.  I  resume  BOW 
just  after  another.  For  the  last  two  days  we  have  had 
bad  weather.  Last  night  we  were  again  among  islands 
to  the  north  of  the  Lew  Chew,  or  Loo  Choo  group;  wind 
howling  and  a  tremenduous  sea,  besides  not  having  had 
an  observation,  we  could  not  tell  exactly  our  position. 
We  rolled  last  night  so  that  I  could  not  sleep,  but  had 
enough  to  do  to  keep  in  my  bed  and  not  fall  out.  To- 
day has  been  clear,  and  we  have  been  running  from 
nine  to  thirteen  knots  an  hour,  going  like  a  racehorse; 
rolling  sometimes  the  lee  and  then  the  weather  guns 
under  water.  We  passed  four  miles  from  an  island 
2000  feet  high,  to-day  —  an  extinct  volcano — a  regular 
crater  at  its  top .  You  would  laugh  at  the  idea  of  any 
one  writing,  if  you  could  see  how  the  ship  rolls  now. 
We  have  run  from  Kanagawa  eight  hundred  miles,  and 
have  nine  hundred  more  to  go  before  reaching  Hong- 
Kong.  We  want  to  get  in  by  the  15th,  on  which  day 
the  mail  leaves,  but  I  fear  we  shall  hardly  do  it,  as  it  re- 
quires us  to  make  ten  miles  an  hour  night  and  day  from 
now  until  Thursday  morning,  (four  days). 

My  last  letter  to  you  was  written  at  Nagasaki,  and 
sent  from  there  about  the  15th  of  October  to  Hong-Kong, 
and  should  have  gone  to  you  per  overland  mail  on 
25th  last  month.  I  trust  it  went  all  right.  That 
letter,  with  this  long  one,  will  give  you  an  account  of 
my  whereabouts  since  leaving  Shanghai .  We  have 
just  found  out  on  board  that  the  commodore  intends 
taking  this  ship  to  Siam  and  then  to  Manila,  soon  after 
arriving  at  Hong-Kong,  and  I  am  requested  to  continue 
my  trip  to  those  places.  But  the  fact  is,  I  want  to  see 
home;  and  as  I  think  the  "  Niagara"  will  take  Mr. 


28 

Ward  as  far  as  Aden,  I  shall  try  to  go  in  her  if  I  get 
the  opportunity.  However,  I  can  tell  better  after  our 
arriving  in  Hong-Kong.  Tis  certainly  a  rare  opportunity 
of  seeing  these  two  places,  and  I  should  be  happy  to 
continue  my  cruise  longer  in  the  ship.  I  do  not  know 
when  Mr.  Coolidge  intends  going  home.  We  take  a 
constitutional  walk  together  daily.  He  knows  Boston 
people  well.  He  asked  me  to-day  what  I  intended  doing 
on  arriving  home.  I  told  him,  "  go  into  some  business 
connected  with  this  quarter  of  the  world,  so  as  to  be 
employed  and  making  money." 

You  should  have  seen  this  ship  at  noon  to-day.  Her 
great  length  and  fine  proportions  under  short  sail,  div- 
ing bows  under,  then  a  roll,  then  another  dive,  as  if 
she  could  not  go  fast  enough;  sea  fairly  boiling,  sun 
out  bright  after  the  storm;  water  tumbling  in 
occasionally  over  our  rails.  I  think  I  never  saw  finer 
sailing,  more  majestic,  rather,  though  I  have  seen 
quieter.  Take  your  map  and  you  can  see  our  posi- 
tion, running  from  the  Pacific  into  the  China  Sea, 
through  a  group  of  islands  between  the  Loo  Choo 
Islands  on  the  south  of  us  and  coast  of  Japan  or 
Van  Diemen's  straits  to  the  north  of  us.  Then 
turn  to  Jeddo  Bay,  Japan,  and  you  can  see  our 
track.  I  have  some  beautiful  things  from  Japan. 
Among  them  is  a  crystal  eighteen  inches  in  circum- 
ference, without  a  flaw,  clear  as  the  air  or  the  purest 
spring  water.  It  was  taken  from  a  cave  in  Japan,  made 
into  a  perfect  sphere  in  form,  by  artificial  means,  and 
is  pronounced  by  Mr.  Coolidge  and  by  our  officers,  as 
well  as  by  foreigners  in  Japan,  something  never  seen 
before,  not  even  in  the  best  cabinets  in  Europe. 


29    ; 

November  13th,  7  P.M.  I  resume  my  letter,  though 
the  ship  is  running  under  sail  alone,  very  fast,  and 
yielding  to  the  sea  by  rolling,  though  not  so  heavily  as 
when  I  left  this  letter. 

Last  evening  Mr.  Coolidge  and  myself  took  tea  with 
the  midshipmen,  and  passed  a  pleasant  evening.  I 
know  of  nothing  more  refreshing  than,  when  tired  of 
all  one  sees  about  them,  especially  in  a  ship  at  sea,  to 
retire  to  the  privacy  oT  his  own  apartment  and  write  a 
letter  home.  The  longer  I  meditate  upon  going  home, 
the  stronger  becomes  my  resolution  to  do  so,  and  I 
think  now  the  inducement  which  would  keep  me  in 
China  any  longer,  would  be  a  rare  one  indeed.  I  feel 
alone  in  the  world,  though  surrounded  with  friends, 
and  I  expect  I  shall  never  quite  cure  that  until  I  have 
a  wife.  I  shall,  at  once  on  arriving  at  Hong-Kong,  make 
preparation  to  leave  it  for  home.  We  ought  to  be  in 
there  now,  say  day  after  to-morrow  evening,  if  the 
present  rate  of  speed  is  kept  up.  I  cannot  tell  you  how 
delightful  this  trip  has  been,  from  the  day  I  left 
Hong-Kong  to  the  present,  especially  when  I  embarked 
in  this  ship,  then  our  passage  through  the  inland  sea, 
the  fine  weather  we  there  experienced,  absence  of  fogs, 
the  novelty  attaching  to  all  we  saw,  my  stay  on  shore 
at  Kanagawa  at  Dorr's,  for  a  week,  our  trip  to  Jeddo,  in 
fine,  the  whole  ;  even  the  subsequent  bad  weather  at 
sea  had  its  advantage,  for  it  gave  a  greater  degree  of 
delight  to  the  days  of  fine  sailing. 

This  ship  rolls  terribly.  We  have  the  wind  now 
right  behind  us,  or  "  dead  aft,"  and  she  always  rolls 
worse  when  sailing  with  the  wind  there.  My  visit  at 
Jeddo  was,  of  itself,  of  no  slight  privilege.  No 
merchants  -  are  allowed  to  go.  The  residents  of 


30 

Kanagawa  and  Yokohama  (foreigners),  though  but 
twelve  miles  distant  from  the  Imperial  City,  cannot 
visit  it.  But  I,  being  in  a  government  ship,  could 
.wear  side  arms  and  the  button,  and  consequently,  with 
the  officers,  enjoyed  what  I  could  not  have  seen  had  I 
gone  to  Kanawaga  in  a  sailing  ship.  No  merchant 
ship  of  any  nation  can  go  to  Jeddo,  or  above  Kanagawa 
or  Yokohama.  I  told  Mr.  Coolidge  to-day  I  would 
like  to  make  the  same  trip  over  again  at  once. 

As  1  have  once  or  twice  already  remarked  in  this 
letter,  we  are  hoping  to  reach  Hong-Kong  before  the 
mail  steamer  leaves  on  the  15th,  at  2  P.M.,  we  must  run 
ten  miles  an  hour  from  now  up  to  that  time,  to  do  it. 
I  think  we  shall  accomplish  it,  though  our  officers 
think  not.  I  am  writing  this  letter  to  go  by  it,  so  if 
we  get  in  only  half  an  hour  before  the  mail  goes,  this 
may  go  by  it.  I  will  leave  this  space  now  to  add  some- 
thing by  and  by,  either  just  as  we  reach  Hong-Kong  or 
before.  We  are  now  off  the  north  end  of  Formosa, 
bound  down  the  sea. 

15th  November,  9  A.M.  We  have  just  had  prayers 
on  deck,  and  I  have  returned  to  my  room  to  add  a  few 
lines  to  my  letter.  We  are  now  fifty  miles  distant  only 
from  an  anchorage,  and  unless  we  run  that  distance 
before  two  o'clock  to-day,  we  shall  miss  the  mail.  I 
think  we  shall  accomplish  it.  I  should  regret  losing 
by  an  hour  to  send  letters  this  mail.  I  will  close  this 
now,  and  trust  to  its  going  forward  by  this  day's 
steamer.  Give  my  kind  regards  to  friends  about  you. 
I  trust  that  I  shall  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  you  in 
a  few  months,  at  farthest.  Until  then  believe  me  your 
affectionate  and  obedient  son  and  servant, 

H.  P.  BLANCH AKD. 


[OVERLAND  FROM  HONG-KONG.  ] 

Having  an  invitation  from  his  Excellency,  John  E. 
Ward  to  join  him  upon  his  return  from  China,  until 
he  reached  his  family  in  Europe,  I  accepted  his  appoint- 
ment, so  kindly  made  to  me,  of  Secretary  to  the  Lega- 
tion. On  Saturday  morning,  December  15th,  1860,  I 
left  my  residence  at  Hong-Kong  at  a  quarter  before  8 
A.M.  and  went  on  board  the  U.  S.  S.  S.  "Hartford"  to 
breakfast  with  and  take  farewell  of  her  officers;  the 
captain  and  commodore  with  whom  I  had  so  recently 
passed  two  months,  upon  a  most  delightful  cruise  to 
Japan.  At  9.30  P.M.,  Mr.  Ward,  came  to  pay  his 
parting  call  to  the  commodore;  and  at  10  A.M.,  I  left 
with  Mr.  Ward  in  the  barge  for  the  U.  S.  S.  F. 
"Niagara,"  which  ship  lay  just  ahead.  As  we  got 
clear  of  the  "Hartford,"  she  fired  a  salute  of  twenty- 
one  guns;  her  yards  were  manned,  as  were  also  those 
of  the  "Niagara.'7  In  five  minutes  we  were  alongside 
and  on  board  the  "  N,"  which  ship  commenced  her 
salute  also  of  twenty-one  guns.  'Twas  soon  over;  the 
order  was  immediately  given  "up  anchor,"  and  by 
10.15A.M.,  this  huge  ship  was  steaming  out  of  harbor 
toward  the  Luy-e-Moon  passage.  The  spacious  cabin 
occupied  by  Mr.  Ward  and  myself,  has  eight  large 
staterooms  with  every  fitting  for  elegance  and  comfort. 
In  the  rear  are  two  large  bathing  rooms,  etc.,  and  the 
whole  is  flush  with  the  upper  or  main  deck.  By  noon 
we  were  fairly  at  sea,  experiencing  an  ugly  sea  with  an 
unpleasant  roll  of  the  ship.  At  3  P.M.  we  dined  with  the 
captain  in  his  spacious  saloon  below  our  own;  Colonel 
Bipley  being  at  table,  he  having  come  out  in  the  ship  for 


32 

the  government.  Mr.  Bnchannan,  captain's  clerk,  was 
also  at  the  table.  The  band  played  during  dinner; 
the  captain  entertained  us  handsomely,  while  the  ship 
was,  by  this  time,  running  before  a  strong  northeast 
monsoon,  twelve  miles  per  hour  under  sail.  We, 
this  day,  triced  up  our  propeller,  it  being  useless  in  a 
strong  breeze.  Tea  was  served  at  seven,  but  neither 
Mr.  Ward  or  myself  cared  to  attend,  having  dined 
heartily;  at  10  P.M.  retired.  Sunday,  the  16th,  the 
wind  continued,  and  at  twelve  to-day,  we  have  run  274 
miles.  Divine -service  was  held  to-day  by  Mr.  Stuart, 
the  chaplain,  on  the  berth  deck;  all  hands  present; 
read  and  slept  the  rest  of  the  day;  at  9  P.M.,  retired. 

Monday,  17th.  Wind  light;  ship  rolls  a  good  deal; 
carrying  lower  studding-sails.  At  twelve  noon  had 
run  two  hundred  and  thirty-one  miles  the  last  twenty- 
four  hours;  altered  our  course  from  southeast  to  south- 
west, having  passed  Macclisfield  Bank  at  4  P.M. 
Dined  at  three  with  the  captain;  Mr.  Brown,  the  first 
Lieutenant  present  The  ward-room  mess  consists  of 
fifteen  excellent  and  efficient  gentlemen.  I  have  been 
in  to  see  them  several  times  already.  The  band  played 
several  pieces  during  dinner,  and  also  after  dinner, 
upon  the  quarter  deck.  This  P.M.  the  guns  were  run 
out  and  exercised;  afterwards  a  prayer  by  the  chaplain; 
retired  at  10  P.M. 

Tuesday.  Wind  light;  run  up  to  12  A.M.  to-day, 
for  twenty-four  hours,  one  hundred  and  fifty -six  miles; 
had  steam  got  up  and  propeller  lowered  afc  9  P.M. 

Wednesday.  With  steam  and  canvas  to-day,  run 
up  to  12  M.  for  twenty-four  hours,  one  hundred  and 
eighty  miles;  at  4  P.M.  saw  an  immense  water  spout, 
distant  four  miles;  also  passed  an  English  ship  with 


33 

troops,  steering  south,  and  another  ship  steering 
southeast;  could  not  discern  her  colors.  Weather 
squally  toward  evening,  but  last  part,  wind  light. 

Thursday.  Squally,  with  much  rain;  distance  run 
this  day,  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles.  An  English 
ship  in  company  with  us  all  this  day  steering  south- 
southeast.  The  band  as  usual  played  at  dinner;  a 
prayer  by  the  chaplain  at  9  A.M.,  and  5  P.M.,  after  in- 
spection. 

Friday,  21st.  No  wind;  under  steam,  have  made  to 
twelve  noon,  two  hundred  and  twenty  miles.  Had  a 
pleasant  dinner,  band  playing,  etc.;  after  dinner,  a 
pleasant  conversation  with  Colonel  Ripley. 

Saturday,  Dec.  22d.  Steady  steaming  to-day  has 
run  us  up  to  an  anchorage  off  the  light-house,  at  the 
entrance  of  Singapore  Straits,  at  10  P.M.,  having  run 
to  twelve  noon  this  day,  two  hundred  and  ten  miles. 
We  passed  this  day,  three  English  transports,  bound 
from  China  to  Singapore,  and  home. 

Sunday,  Dec.  23d.  To-day,  at  noon,  anchored  with- 
in two  miles  pf  Singapore,  after  a  run  of  thirty-six 
miles  in  from  the  lighthouse.  At  1  P.M.  I  went  on 
shore  with  Mr.  Ward,  our  purser.  We  landed  opposite 
the  monument;  went  to  the  "  Hotel  1'  Esperance," 
(formerly  the  "  London  Hotel  ['  Esperance";had  lunch, 
took  a  carriage,  drove  to  the  news-room,  and  then  to  the 
American  Consul's,  distant  two  miles  in  the  country. 
Here  we  passed  an  hour,  then  drove  two  or  three  miles 
further  to  a  new  residence  unoccupied,  but  which  com- 
mands the  best  view  in  Singapore.  At  sundown  we  re- 
turned to  town,  and  went  off  to  the  ship.  I  was  in  Sing- 
apore five  years  since,  and  passed  six  weeks ;  'twas 
during  the  prevalence  of  the  southwest  monsoon,  when 


34 

frequent  rains  rendered  the  country  beautiful;  whether 
or  no  'twas  the  difference  in  the  season  now  which 
seems  to  render  Singapore  less  attractive  or  not,  I  do 
not  know;  but  neither  the  town  or  the  country  seem 
so  inviting  as  when  I  last  visited  the  place.  The 
building  of  a  fort  on  the  water  front,  also,  of  a  new 
church,  and  a  few  new  residences  has  somewhat 
improved  the  architectural  appearance  of  the  town. 

Monday,  Dec.  24th.  The  American  Consul  break- 
fasted with  us.  We  gave  the  town  a  salute  of  twenty- 
one  guns  this  morning  at  eight  o'clock  ;  then  at  nine 
fired  nine  guns  for  the  Consul,  and  at  9.30  A.M.,  got 
underway  for  Aden;  at  twelve,  noon,  we  met  the  U.  S. 
Steamer  "  Dacotah,"  from  the  U.  S.  via  the  Cape  and 
Ceylon.  She  rounded  too  and  sent  us  a  mail  bag  for  the 
"  Niagara;"  after  being  alongside  twenty  minutes,  she 
steamed  on  to  Singapore,  while  we  in  time,  pursued 
our  course.  The  "  Dacotah7'  is  one  of  the  B.  I. 
Squadron,"  and  bound  to  China.  Our  band  played 
several  airs;  among  them,  "  Sweet  Home";  which,  after 
an  absence  like  mine,  of  five  years,  one  can  understand, 
would  have  some  effect. 

The  weather  for  several  days  has  been  quite  hot, 
calling  into  use  our  white  pants,  jackets  and  coats. 
Saw  two  vessels  to-day,  a  bark  and  brig,  standing 
through  the  straits  toward  Singapore.  We  are  this  day 
running  under  steam.  To-morrow,  being  Christmas, 
I  have  an  invitation  to  dine  with  the  wardroom  officers. 

December  25th,  Christmas  day.  We  are  to-day, 
using  steam,  running  through  the  straits  of  Malacca, 
and  expect  to  pass  Penang  to-morrow,  at  6  A.M.  Our 
boilers  are  bad,  and  our  chief  engineer  says  we  may 
not  be  able  to  run  with  them  all  the  way  to  Aden.  I 


35 

fear  our  coal  will  give  out;  and  if  it  is  decided  that  we 
cannot  go  into  Galle  with  this  ship,  'twould  seem  the 
part  of  prudence  to  coal  at  Penang,  as  our  supply  of 
black  diamonds  does  not  now  exceed  500  tons.  We  use 
thirty-three  tons  per  day.  Jardine's  Steamer  "  Lance- 
field"  from  China  for  Calcutta,  passed  us  this  morning. 
Weather  hot — the  Malacca  shore  in  sight  all  the  time. 
At  three  this  P.M.,  in  company  with  his  Excellency, 
Mr.  Ward,  Captain  McKean  and  Colonel  Ripley,  of 
the  army,  I  dined  at  the  wardroom  mess;  twenty 
composed  the  dinner  party.  We  rose  at  6  P.M.,  after 
a  delightful  dinner,  which  was  well  served  and  enjoyed 
the  more,  because  accompanied  by  the  band,  which 
played  for  us.  To-night,  at  sundown,  six  or  eight 
square-rigged  vessels  are  in  sight.  We  passed  the 
light-ship  at  noon;  distance  run,  two  hundred  and  ten 
miles  to  twelve  noon,  to-day. 

December  26th,  Wednesday.  This  morning  at  seven 
o'clock,  we  made  a  brig  and  bark  at  anchor  twenty-six 
miles  from  Penang  laden  with  coolies.  In  running 
ahead  of  the  latter,  but  too  close  to  her,  not  making 
allowance  for  tide  which  was  setting  us  upon  her,  we 
carried  away  her  bowsprit  and  stove  our  larboard  boats. 
We  then  run  around  her,  asked  if  she  wished  a  tow  into 
Penang,  to  which  he  replied,  "yes."  We  again  fouled 
her  by  running  alongside;  at  length  we  took  her  in 
tow,  3  P.M.  We  have  towed  the  bark  into  port,  or 
rather  just  off  the  port  of  Penang;  paid  her  owner  who 
was  on  board  $1,000  damages,  which  settled  the 
difficulty  amicably.  The  vessel  had  a  Chinese  captain 
and  an  English  mate;  the  owner  was  a  Cingalese.  We 
are  now  steering  for  a  point  to  clear  Acheen  Head,  on 
the  north  end  of  Sumatra;  no  wind,  and  only  under 


36 

steam.     Had   music   this   afternoon,   and   prayers   as 
usual. 

Thursday,  December  27th.  Steaming  seven  and 
a  half  knots  per  hour,  no  wind,  weather  hot,  bound 
over  to  Acheen  Head;  distance  run  to  twelve  noon, 
to-day,  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles. 

Friday,  28th  December.  This  A.M.  at  eight,  passed 
Acheen  Head,  steering  west-by-north;  a  light  breeze; 
running  under  steam  and  sail. 

Saturday,  December  29th.  We  lost  sight  of  the 
Island  of  Nicobar  to  the  northward  of  Acheen  Head, 
yesterday  evening,  and  to-day  are  running  seven  knots 
per  hour  under  canvas  alone,  with  propeller  triced  up. 
This  Island  of  Nicobar  seems  to  be  some  twenty 
miles  square;  luxuriant  growth  of  woods,  etc.  upon  it, 
and  undoubtedly  a  rich  island  in  gums,  woods,  precious 
stones,  etc.,  etc.  No  signs  of  inhabitants,  but  'tis 
peopled  with  the  race  which  inhabit  also  the  An- 
damans.  We  passed  this  island  on  our  starboard 
beam. 

Sunday,  30th  December.  Light  breeze,  propeller 
triced  up,  sailing  seven  knots;  weather  fine,  with  an 
occasional  squall;  distance  this  twenty-four  hours,  one 
hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  to  twelve  noon.  Had 
divine  service  to-day. 

Monday,  December  31st.  A  fair  breeze,  wind  east- 
northeast;  distance  ran  to-day  at  noon,  one  hundred 
and  sixty -five  miles,  under  canvas. 

Tuesday,  January  1,  1860.  Under  sail  only;  running 
eight  to  nine  knots  toward  Ceylon — twelve  noon,  land 
of  Ceylon  in  sight,  having  run  the  last  twenty-four 
hours,  two  hundred  and  ten  miles.  We  do  not  touch, 
but  proceed  direct  to  Aden. 


37 

Wednesday,  2d.  Strong  winds  all  day;  at  night  a 
fresh  gale  from  north.  Steaming  and  sailing,  distance 
run,  two  hundred  miles;  course,  northwest. 

Thursday,  3d.  Propeller  triced  up  at  nine  this  A.M. 
Wind  light,  Cape  Cormorin  in  sight  this  A.M.  Steam- 
ing all  this  day;  wind  west  at  sundown.  We  ran  two 
hundred  miles  the  last  twenty-four  hours  to  noon, 
to-day. 

Friday  4th.  To  twelve  this  noon,  have  run  one 
hundred  and  ninety  miles,  being  now  sixteen  hundred 
and  eighty  miles  from  Aden.  Steaming  seven  knots, 
no  wind.  This  evening  passed  the  Island  of  Minacor; 
people  thereon  said  to  be  friendly.  This  evening 
triced  up  propeller,  having  a  four-knot  breeze. 

Saturday,  January  5th,  8  A.M.  Lowered  propeller 
again,  having  no  wind.  Yesterday  we  ran  about  one 
hundred  and  eighty  miles.  To-day,  at  twelve  noon, 
our  run  for  the  last  twenty-four  hours  will  have  been 
less,  as  we  have  laid  still  all  night. 

Sunday,  January  6th.  A  charming  day ;  a  long 
prosy  sermon  at  10.30  A.M.  Ship  steaming  eight 
knots.  "Oh!  when  will  all  our  wanderings-  end." 
Distance  run  to  twelve  noon,  to-day,  two  hundred 
miles. 

Monday  7th.  Still  steaming  on  through  an  almost 
motionless  and  waveless  sea.  Now  and  then  a  few 
sea  birds  are  seen  hovering  over  a  school  of  fish,  but 
little  else  can  we  discern  to  break  the  monotony  of  the 
voyage.  A  daily  review  of  the  marines  and  exercise  of 
guns  and  seamen,  afford  us  some  variety,  while  sleep- 
ing, reading  and  conversing,  with  eating  and  drinking, 
fills  up  the  remainder  of  our  time. 


38 

Tuesday  8th.  Distance  run  to-day,  to  noon,  one 
hundred  and  seventy-eight  miles,  under  steam  alone. 

Wednesday,  9th.  Still  steaming;  no  wind  since 
leaving  Ceylon;  distance  one  hundred  and  seventy 
miles. 

Thursday.  Steaming;  distance  to  noon,  one  hundred 
and  seventy-eight  miles. 

Friday  morning,  ten  o'clock.  Made  the  island  of 
Socotra,  and  have  run  alongside  of  it  all  the  latter 
part  of  this  day  on  the  northern  edge;  distance  one 
hundred  and  sixty  miles  to  noon. 

Saturday  12th.  This  day  ran  one  hundred  and 
eighty  miles  under  steam  and  sail. 

Sunday.  Another  long  prosy  sermon  about  nothing 
at  all.  Distance  ran  to-day,  one  hundred  and  ninety- 
eight  miles  up  to  twelve  noon. 

Monday,  January  14th.  An  unfortunate  fireman  lost 
his  life  to-day,  by  a  block  falling  on  his  head.  At 
2  P.M.  to-day,  we  anchored  at  Aden. 

ADEN,  Tuesday,  15th  January,  1861. 

We  arrived  yesterday.  The  mail  from  the  U.  S.  reports 
the  election  of  Abraham  Lincoln  as  President.  This 
morning  we  buried,  at  sunrise,  the  man  who  was  killed 
yesterday.  I  went  on  shore,  had  a  dinner  with  Captain 
Webb,  who  is  an  agent  of  Mr.  Bertram,  of  Salem,  here. 
Staid  at  the  hotel  during  the  night  ;  passed  the  evening 
at  Captain  Thomas',  agent  of  P.  &  0.  Company. 

Wednesday.  In  the  evening  rode  with  Captain  Mc- 
Kean  of  the  "Niagara"  out  to  the  camp,  five  miles 
from  the  point.  Called  on  Colonel  Playfair,  the  chief 
official  in  the  place  ;  stopped  and  heard  the  band  for 
quarter  of  an  hour,  and  rode  in  again  through  the  for- 


39 

tifications.  Passed  the  evening  playing  whist  at 
Captain  Thomas',  with  several  others.  Staid  all  night 
at  the  hotel. 

Thursday  17 .  A  party  of  ladies  visited  the  c  c  Niagara" 
where  we  had  dancing  on  deck.  Friday  another  party 
of  ladies  came  off  at  Mr.  Ward's  invitation,  he  having 
agreed  to  meet  them  on  shore,  but  being  ill,  I  received 
them  in  his  stead  at  the  landing.  All  seemed  delighted 
with  the  noble  ship,  and  with  their  reception.  This 
evening,  in  company  with  a  few  officers,  I  went  on 
shore,  and  serenaded  with  our  band  one  or  two  ladies 
at  Captain  Thomas'. 

Saturday  19.  Last  night  the  steamer  *  'Norna"  came  in 
from  Mauritius,  and  this  morning,  at  eight,  the  ' ' Orissa'' 
from  Bombay.  I  took  a  boat  and  went  on  shore  to  break- 
fast with  Captain  Webb,  and  find  we  leave  per  "Orissa" 
for  Suez,  to-night,  at  8  P.M.  At  2  P.M.,  I  returned  to  our 
ship,  and  at  5  P.M.  Mr.  Ward  and  myself  left  our  beau- 
tiful vessel,  her  yards  manned,  band  playing,  and  a 
salute  of  twenty-one  guns.  After  so  much  comfort  as  we 
had  taken  oil  board  that  wonderful  ship,  how  could  we 
have  left  her  without  feelings  of  the  deepest  regret. 
At  sundown,  we  were  on  board  the  P.  &  O.  Company's 
steamship  "  Orissa,"  mixed  up  with  men,  women  and 
children,  officers  of  the  Queen's  army,  officers  of  the 
E.  I.  Company's  army,  sick  and  well,  Arabs,  Hindoos, 
Jews  and  Somaulis,  surrounded  with  boxes  of  mer- 
chandise, baggage,  etc.,  etc.  At  10  P.M.  up  came  the 
anchor,  and  we  steamed  out  of  port  and  just  by  our 
"  Niagara.7' 

I  have  enjoyed  my  stay  at  Aden  very  much  indeed. 
Captain  Webb  being  there,  and  living  with  him  on 
shore,  enhanced  the  pleasure.  With  him  I  rode  daily, 


40 

visited  ladies,  or  drove  his  horse  and  buggy.  The 
most  wonderful  thing  for  visitors  at  Aden  to  behold, 
are  the  tanks — one  of  which  holds  five  millions  of 
gallons — constructed  by  the  Arabs  centuries  ago. 

Sunday  January  20th.  While  writing,  we  have 
entered  the  Red  Sea  and  passed  the  island  of  Perim, 
now  held  by  the  English.  With  a  fair  wind,  we  are 
running  off  our  twelve  miles  per  hour. 

Aden  has  a  garrison  now  of  fifteen  hundred  European 
and  Seapoy  troops.  Coffee  trade  is  carried  on  here.  The 
Arabs  here  are  fierce  and  wild,  and  no  foreigner  can 
land  upon  an  adjacent  shore  without  being  shot.  The 
Ishmaelite  character  is  fully  perceptible .  We  are  now 
steaming  up  the  Red  Sea  for  Suez.  Our  party  which 
left  the  "  Niagara,"  consists  of  Mr.  Ward,  Colonel 
Ripley,  Dr.  Woodsworth  and  myself. 

January  21st.  Our  fair  wind  is  now  dying  gently 
away,  and  our  captain  predicts  head  winds.  Pas- 
sengers are  all  well  and  jolly. 

January  22d.  The  land  of  Abyssinia  is  in  sight.  I 
omitted  to  say  that  on  the  twentieth  we  passed  in  sight 
of  Mocha,  where  three  foreign  vessels  were  at  anchor. 
To-day  we  have  Jidda,  the  seaport  of  Mecca,  on  our 
starboard  side. 

January  23rd.  Wind  strong  ahead,  blowing  down 
the  sea;  the  shore  of  Egypt  and  Arabia  on  either  side, 
within  eight  miles. 

January  24th.  A  furious  gale  last  night,  but  our 
steamer  behaved  well,  and  ran  seven  miles  an  hour 
into  the  teeth  of  it. 

January  25th.  Mt.  Horeb  and  Mt.  Sinai  in  sight  on 
our  right  hand,  being  a  part  of  a  range  of  mountains 
near  to  us,  which  are  very  high  and  covered  with  snow. 


41 

No  one  can  conceive  of  the  desolation  which  surrounds 
that  shore,  presenting  only  decaying  and  decomposing 
mountains,  with  their  peaks  far  above  the  clouds,  sur- 
rounded by  wastes  of  sand.  To  be  cast  away  on  these 
shores,  is  certain  death  at  the  hands  of  the  Arabs. 
These  facts,  together  with  the  cold  at  this  season,  ren- 
ders the  "  tout  ensemble"  far  from  a  pleasant  locality. 
The  navigation  of  the  Red  Sea  at  this  part  is  narrowed 
down  to  but  three  miles  of  channel;  coral  reefs  run- 
ning out  on  both  sides.  To-night,  at  9  P.M.,  we  passed 
over  the  passage  of  the  Israelites  when  pursued  by  the 
Egyptians.  At  10. BO  P.M.  we  anchored  off  the  town 
of  Suez.  I  won  the  lottery  which  it  is  customary  to 
get  up  upon  these  steamers  on  the  passage  on  the  minute 
of  arrival,  say  twenty-five  rupees. 

January  26th.  This  morning  at  half  past  nine,  a 
steam  tug-boat  came  alongside  our  steamer,  and  took 
all  our  passengers  with  their  baggage  to  town.  We 
saw  Moses'  Well  near  the  bank  of  the  sea  as  we  steamed 
up.  Suez  is  a  mean  place,  and  only  Arabs,  Jews  and 
camels  are  seen  here.  The  town  is  five  miles  from  our 
anchorage.  The  railroad  which  connects  Suez  with 
Alexandria,  passing  through  Cairo,  comes  down  upon 
the  wharf.  Here  we  took  the  cars  at  once  on  reaching 
shore,  and  at  11.15  A.M.,  we  left  Suez  for  Cairo  and 
Alexandria,  over  the  vast  desert  where  nought  save  an 
unlimited  waste  of  sand  was  visible.  Occasionally  we 
passed  a  few  Arab  houses,  or  caves  constructed  under- 
ground. We  procured  a  few  biscuits  at  two  way- 
stations,  and  after  running  six  hours  over  this  illimit- 
able plain  of  sand,  with  no  green  thing  in  sight,  we 
suddenly  came  upon  the  border  of  the  Nile,  and  Cairo 
with  its  myriad  mosques,  minarets,  cultivated  fields, 


42 

green  trees  and  gardens,  rose  upon  the  sight.  Such 
a  contrast  I  never  experienced,  nor  can  it  be  realized 
save  here.  We  had  run  ninety  miles.  We  dined  at 
Cairo,  and  at  six  the  same  evening,  resumed  our  rail 
travel  for  Alexandria,  running  over  a  level  country, 
crossing  the  Nile  twice,  and  beneath  the  influence  of  a 
matronly  moon.  As  we  rode  into  Cairo,  those  mighty 
monuments  of  antiquity,  the  three  pyramids,  rose  upon 
our  sight.  No  one  can  behold  these  without  reflecting 
upon  the  ages  which  have  passed  away  since  their 
founders  flourished,  and  still  there  their  tombs  stand, 
defying  time  and  guarding  the  desert.  We  reached 
Alexandria  at  2  A.M.  of  the  27th,  cold,  chilled  through 
and  weary  with  our  long,  dry,  dusty  ride  over  the 
desert.  At  the  depot,  we  were  received  by  the  acting 
United  States  Consul,  who  had  a  carriage  and  a 
dragoman  in  waiting,  and  with  whom  we  went  to  the 
Hotel  1'Europe.  By  four  this  morning  we  went  to  bed, 
but  sleeping  in  wet  sheets  gave  both  Mr.  Ward  and 
myself  a  severe  cold,  from  which  I  anticipate  a  pro- 
tracted indisposition.  After  a  poor  rest  of  four  hours, 
I  arose,  and  after  riding  about,  visiting  the  Exchange, 
seeing  Pompey's  Pillow  and  Cleopatra's  Needle,  we  left 
Alexandria  this  day  per  P.  &  O.  steamer  "  Ellora,"  at 
noon. 

January  27th.  We  left  Alexandria  in  company  with 
the  steamer  for  Marseilles.  January  28th.  This 
morning  weather  fine.  Our  number  of  passengers  has 
been  pleasantly  increased,  a  Mr.  Crockett  of  Boston, 
with  a  number  of  Americans  who  have  been  up  the 
Nile.  January  29th.  A  few  vivid  flashes  of  light- 
ning last  evening,  betokened  a  storm.  This  morning, 
before  daylight,  it  was  upon  us.  The  rolling  of  the 


43 

ship  became  severe,  and  frequent  seas  fell  upon  us, 
taking  our  life-boat  away  from  the  davits,  darkening 
our  skylights  and  pouring  down  tons  of  water  through 
our  upper-deck  hatches.  Deeming  it  imprudent  at 
10  A.M.,  to  run  the  ship  longer,  the  sea  increasing  and 
now  having  become  fearful,  the  captain  wisely  hove 
her  too.  We  laid  all  day  with  the  worst  sea  running 
which  I  have  ever  seen.  At  sundown  it  moderated, 
and  glad  were  we  all  to  look  over  the  crest  of  the 
waves  toward  our  haven,  and  see  our  steamer  under- 
way once  more.  30th  January,  smooth  sea.  Jan- 
uary 31st.  At  daylight  this  A.M.,  we  anchored  in 
quarantine  harbor,  Valetta,  Malta.  After  breakfast 
we  bid  adieu  to  our  passengers,  two  of  whom  I  much 
regretted  leaving,  the  wife  of  a  major  in  H.  M.  In- 
dian army,  Mrs.  Aitken  and  a  beautiful  boy  of  four 
years,  and  a  Gapt.  Douglass  of  the  same  army,  son  of 
Gen.  Sir  Jas.  Douglass,  G.  C.  B.  Here  we  took 
rooms  at  Dunsford's  Hotel.  February  1st.  This  day 
we  drove  out  to  the  grotto  of  St.  Paul,  where  he  lived 
for  four  months  after  his  shipwreck.  A  church  stands 
upon  this  spot.  The  priest  who  opens  to  you  the,  de- 
scent to  this  remarkable  cave,  tells  you  with  the  ut- 
most gravity  and  sincerity  that  people  have  carried 
away  ship  loads  of  this  cave,  but  it  never  grows  any 
larger.  Also  that  when  Paul  preached  here  he  was 
distinctly  heard  in  Sicily.  We  next  visited  the  old 
Saracenic  Catacombs  which  once  led  six  miles  into  Va- 
letta, but  now  are  filled  up.  Next  we  saw  the  statue 
of  St.  Paul  upon  the  spot  where  he  preached,  now  a 
garden  of  the  church.  Next  the  spot  where  Paul  was 
shipwrecked.  After  this  the  old  cathedral  which  was 
built  by  one  of  the  grand  masters  of  the  celebrated 


44 

order  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem.     This 
cathedral  is  full  of  old  paintings,  of  beautiful  mosaics, 
and  of  tombs  of   bishops  beneath  the  mosaic  floor. 
Upon  our  return  to  Valetta  we  visited  the  summer 
palace  of  the  governor,  where,  upon  the  trees  in  the 
grounds,  hung  two  or  three  ship  loads  of  lemons  and 
oranges.    Next  we  went  to  the  "College  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean," where  some  seventy  students  from  all  parts  of 
Europe  and  Asia  receive  European  education.     The 
accomplished  tutor   informed  us  that  the  expenditures 
of  this  institution   exceeded  the  receipts   by  £2,500 
sterling  per  annum ;    which  amount  he  receives  from 
the  charities  of  the  nobility  of  England.     We  returned 
to  Valetta  this  evening,  after  a  long  and  interesting 
drive.     I  omitted  to  say  that  Mr.    Ward,  the  consul, 
Mr.  Winthrop   of   Boston  and   myself  called  on  the 
governor,  where  we  found  at  this  palace  a  superb  col- 
lection of  paintings,  superb  mosaic  floors  and  many 
suits  of  armor,  one  of  which  was  worn  by  the  Knight 
of  the  order  of  St.  John,  who  founded  Valetta.     Next 
we  were  introduced  into   the  library  or  news  room. 
This  evening  I  procured  a  box  at  the  opera,  where  Mr. 
Ward,  Mr.  Crockett,   myself,  an  English   officer  and 
lady  attended.     The  performance  of  the  prima  donna 
was  creditable  in  the  opera  of  "The  Barber  of  Seville/' 
(Eossini).     February  2nd.     Visited  the  church  of  St. 
John  with  its  superb  oil  paintings,  its  four  hundred 
richly   wrought    mosaic    tombstones,    composing    its 
floors,  the  room  beneath  the  church  where  repose  in 
marble  sarcophagi  the  dust  of  the  seven  grand  masters 
of  the  knights  who  built  the  seven  palaces  and  seven 
churches,    which     are    to-day   the    glory   of     Malta. 
Doubtless  this  church  is  unsurpassed  by  any  other  in 
the  world. 


45 

February  2nd.  Went  out  to  a  church  of  Capuchin 
friars  or  monks,  where  we  were  shown  underneath 
it,  a  double  row  of  twenty -six  monks,  each  standing  in 
a  niche,  dressed  in  a  black  gown,  the  only  covering 
for  the  skeleton.  These  grinning,  ghastly  spectacles 
have  stood  in  upright  posture  for  from  five  to  fifty 
years,  prevented  only  from  falling  by  a  bar  of  wood 
passed  around  the  arms.  The  main  and  wonderful 
features  of  Malta  are  its  immense  forts  and  fortifica- 
tions, which  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated,  as  no  des- 
cription can  afford  a  faint  idea  of  their  magnitude. 
A  garrison  of  8,000  English  troops  hold  this  island, 
which  is  a  perfect  gem  in  the  circle  of  islands  around 
it.  February  3d,  at  noon,  we  embarked  on  board  the 
Messagaries  Imperiales  steamer,  "Porsillippo,"  bound  to 
Leghorn.  We  saw  Gozo,  where  Calypso's  grotto  is,  as 
we  passed  out  by  the  island.  We  are  to  touch  at  Mes- 
sina, Naples,  and  Civitta  Vecchia,  before  reaching  Leg- 
horn. Among  our  passengers  is  the  family  of  the 
Earl  of  Albermarle,  consisting  of  himself,  lady  Alber- 
marle  and  their  two  daughters,  the  Lady  Alice  and 
Lady  Louisa  Keppel.  The  Earl  is  a  peer  of  England, 
but  a  most  unassuming,  plain,  charming  gentleman. 
We  have  a  smooth  sea  and  prospect  of  being  at  Mes- 
sina to-morrow.  February  4th.  Arrived  at  Messina 
this  morning  at  daylight.  Nothing  to  see  on  shore. 
City  occupied  by  Sardinian  troops,  while  the  forts  in 
the  harbor  are  held  by  the  Neopolitan  troops.  The 
American  steam  sloop  "Richmond,"  flag-ofircer  Bell, 
lies  here.  I  took  breakfast  with  him  this  A.M.  To-day 
he  has  been  on  board  our  steamer  to  see  Mr.  Ward, 
who  has  been  ill  below  in  his  stater.oom.  At  2  P.M. 
to-day,  we  left  Messina  for  Naples.  To-night  at  6  P.M. 


46 

we  passed  Stromboli,  rising  from  the  sea,  yet  showing 
upon  its  top  its  flaming  embouchure.  At  4  to-day  we 
passed  through  the  straits  of  Scylla  and  Oharybdis. 

February  5th,  at  6  A.M.,  we  steamed  up  the  harbor 
of  Naples.  The  mountain  of  Vesuvius  rose  clear 
against  the  blue  heavens  as  we  passed  it,  emitting  a 
sluggish  cloud  of  smoke  from  its  crater.  On  our  port 
side  the  adjacent  country  of  Naples  presented  its  pic- 
turesque scenery  of  hillsides  and  slopes  crowned  with 
residences.  At  9  A.M.  we  dropped  anchor,  and  at 
10  A.M.  Mr.  Ward  and  myself  went  on  shore.  The 
police  station  responded  to  our  application  for  a  pass, 
"that  the  Minister  of  the  United  States  needed  none  to 
go  wherever  he  liked."  Could  the  narrow-minded  pol- 
iticians of  our  beloved  country  feel  and  know  the  real 
worth  of  an  American  citizenship,  they  would  not 
have  led  us  into  this  terrible  juncture,  where  only 
the  providence  of  God  can  save  us  from  totaJ  annihi- 
lation. We  took  a  carriage,  and  after  visiting  the 
strada  Toledo,  the  most  celebrated  street  in  Europe, 
the  museum  and  the  Consul,  we  drove  through  the  tun- 
nel and  around  the  drive  which  is  some  two  miles  be- 
yond, and  returning  by  the  sea,  near  the  foreign  resi- 
dences. At  4  P.M.  we  sailed,  and  blessed  with  a  smooth 
sea,  we  passed  a  quiet  night,  and  at  daylight,  February 
6th,  anchored  before  Civitta  Vecchia.  Here  we  de- 
livered most  of  our  passengers,  including  the  Earl  and 
his  family.  I  went  on  shore,  but  what  with  an  unin- 
teresting'town  occupied  by  French  troops,  and  a  rainy 
day,  I  was  glad  to  return  to  the  steamer.  At  4  P.M. 
we  left. 

February  7th.  At  daylight  this  A.M.,  we  arrived  at 
Leghorn  from  Civitta  Vecchia.  Here  we  were  met  by 


47 

the  United  States  Vice-Consul,  who  most  kindly  took 
us  on  shore,  and  was  of  the  utmost  aid  in  passing 
ourselves  and  our  baggage  from  the  steamer  to  the 
cars  for  Florence.  At  9.30  A.M.  we  left  per  rail  for 
Florence  ;  passing  through  Pisa,  the  leaning  tower 
in  sight ;  and  after  two  hours  ride  through  a  highly 
cultivated  country,  we  reached  Florence  at  half  past 
twelve.  The  most  delightful  railroad  trip  I  have  ever 
taken;  the  scenery  is  very  fine,  combining  natural  and 
artificial  attractions.  I  parted  here  with  my  companion, 
Mr.  Ward;  he  joins  his  family,  who  are  residing  here, 
while  I  take  rooms  in  the  Hotel  de  la  Ville,  but  one 
door  removed  from  him. 

23d  February.  At  4.30  this  A.  M.  I  left  Florence  in 
the  coupe  No.  1  of  the  diligence  for  Bologna,  en  route 
for  Venice .  I  have  passed  more  than  a  fortnight  in 
Florence,  at  the  Hotel  de  la  Ville,  on  the  Arno;  in 
visiting  galleries,  palaces  and  friends,  in  attending  the 
Opera  Bal  Masqu£,  etc.  etc.,  in  drives  to  Fiesole,  and 
over  upon  the  heights  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the 
Arno.  No  city  in  Italy  affords  attractions  for  the 
visitor,  or  for  a  resident,  which  can  surpass  those  of 
Florence.  The  city  embraces  every  form  of  ancient 
and  modern  art  and  architecture.  The  Pitti  Palace, 
the  Uffize,  the  Corsini,  the  Boboli  Gardens,  Fiesole, 
with  its  villas  and  views,  the  studios — among  which 
Powers'  appears  in  the,  front  rank  for  works  of  merit, 
and  Fullers  for  its  Godeva.  The  cathedral,  the 
churches,  in  fact  everything  has  a  charm  for  the 
stranger  at  Florence.  Through  Mr.  Crockett,  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Suffolk  Bar  of  Boston,  I  met  an  Italian  fam- 
ily, and  thus  was  favored  with  ingress  into  Italian 
society,  embracing  writers,  poets  and  musical  talent, 


48 

unsurpassed  in  Italy.  Many  of  my  evenings  were  passed 
in  this  society.  I  also  met  a  Mrs.  Fields  and  daughter, 
of  St.  Louis.  Three  days  since,  I  parted  with  Mr. 
Ward,  who,  with  Mrs.  Ward,  have  taken  a  private  car- 
riage or  vetturino  for  Home,  leaving  four  children 
behind  in  care  of  their  niece,  Miss  Newton,  of  New 
York.  Well,  adieu  to  Florence.  My  coupe  com- 
panions in  the  diligence  prove  to  be  an  English  lady 
and  daughter,  or  rather  Scotch  I  infer,  though  they 
both  drop  the  H  so  often,  that  I  found  'twas  useless  to 
follow  Punclis  example  of  picking  it  up  and  handing  it 
to  them.  The  mother  asking  the  daughter  "which  side 
the  Adriatic  Naples  stood  upon  T  and  the  daughter's 
reply  that,  "  she  did  not  know,"  gave  me  a  faint  idea 
of  the  object  of  their  peregrinations.  I  suppose  it  to 
be  information.  We  reached  Bologna  at  10  P.M.  this 
day,  after  a  hard,  but  pleasant  ride  over  the  Appenines  ; 
and  thence  over  a  level  road  to  Bologna.  Stopped  at 
Hotel  Brun  or  Suisse. 

February  24th,  Sunday.  This  day  at  noon,  I  left  in 
a  private  carriage  or  vetturino,  after  visiting  the 
"  Academia  della  Bella  Arti."  for  Ferrara;  the  two 
English  ladies  as  my  companions.  At  7  P.M.,  we 
reached  the  "Hotel  d'  Europe,"  after  riding  all  day 
over  a  level  country,  through  vineyards  all  the  way. 
The  season  is  early  for  vegetation;  the  weather  rainy, 
and  the  mountains  on  all  sides  covered  with  snow. 
Bologna  is  an  interesting,  city,  presenting  miles  of 
corridors  as  you  enter  it  through  its  gates.  Venice 
being  my  destination,  I  did  not  remain  here. 

February  25th.  This  morning  at  seven,  I  again  took 
a  seat  in  the  coupe,  for  Padua,  which  place,  we  reached 
at  night,  at  five  o'clock;  my  English  friends  still  in 


49 

company,  their  route  being  like  my  own,  from  Florence 
to  Venice  and  Paris.  We,  this  day,  had  our  luggage 
searched  as  we  were  entering  Austrian  dominion- 
though  by  right,  Austria  should  relinquish  her  hold  on 
Venice,  Padua,  etc.,  especially  since  Italy  now  is 
united  under  the  rule  of  Victor  Emmanuel.  Perhaps, 
however,  Austria  is  waiting  for  the  French  Emperor  to 
withdraw  his  troops  from  the  Eomagna.  Six  of  one 
and  half  dozen  of  the  other,  I  suspect.  Here  I  rested 
for  the  dinner  hour  only;  at  9  P.M.  we  left  by  rail  for 
Venice.  Padua  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  interest- 
ing cities  of  northern  Italy.  Its  streets,  squares, 
cathedrals,  etc.,  etc.,  are  upon  a  grand  scale,  and 
evince  its  having  seen  its  days  of  renown,  and  merited 
celebrity.  We  traveled  over  most  interesting  roads 
from  Ferrara  to  Padua,  straight  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
see,  elevated  and  very  solid.  One  could  easily  detect 
that  he  was  within  the  limit  of  a  powerful  sovereign 
by  the  innumerable  troops  to  be  seen  on  the  roads, 
and  at  all  the  towns  and  stations  "  en  passant." 

At  ten  this  P.M.,  we  arrived  at  the  depot  in  Venice, 
after  an  hour's  ride  from  Padua.  I  do  like  the  con- 
tinental arrangement  at  depots,  where  guards  keep  off 
the  crowd,  and  you  are  allowed  to  escape  the  in- 
convenience and  annoyance  of  the  multitude.  We  ran 
for  seven  miles  before  entering  Venice,  over  a  bridge 
with  the  sea  on  both  sides  of  us.  At  11  P.M.,  we 
entered  a  gondola,  and  started  for  the  Hotel  Malberg. 
After  being  steered  through  various  little  canals  by 
the  marvelous  dexterity  of  the  gondoliers  in  the  use  of 
one  oar,  a  performance,  I  believe,  unequalled  except 
by  the  boatman  of  Venice,  we  reached  the  hotel  sit- 
situated  upon  the  Grand  Canal. 


50 

February  26th.  To-day  I  visited  the  Palazzo  San 
Marco,  the  gallery  of  paintings  in  the  Ducal  Palace,  the 
entire  palace,  the  room  once  occupied  by  the  Council 
of  Ten,  the  hall  where  the  Inquisitors,  three  in 
number,  tortured  state  prisoners,  the  memorable 
Bridge  of  Sighs  ;  and  crossing  this,  the  Infernal 
Prison,  which  Byron  has  long  since  written  of.  No 
wonder  when  you  pass  from  the  Doge's  Palace  to  the 
solid  granite  prison,  with  its  grated  windows,  that 
sighs  escaped  the  victims  who  never  more  saw  the 
light  of  heaven.  A  cold  chill  ran  through  my  frame  as 
I  stood  upon  this  memorable  spot;  and  an  intimation 
from  the  inquisitorial  looking  gate-keeper  who  unlocked 
the  iron  doors  of  the  prison,  and  showed  me  one  form 
of  torture,  to  descend  to  the  dungeons  by  the  light  of 
his  greasy  candles,  was  met  by  me  with  a  positive 
refusal.  God  in  his  infinite  mercy  forbid  in  the  future 
history  of  our  globe  the  re-enaction  of  scenes  such  as 
have  been  witnessed  beneath  this  "  prison,  and  the 
palace." 

February  26th.  1  omitted  to  note  at  Florence,  two 
important  objects  of  interest  which  I  there  enjoyed. 
One  was  the  celebrated  annual  carnival,  the  other  the 
Palnce  of  Prince  Demidoff.  Of  the  former,  I  will  only 
say  that  the  last  day  of  the  carnival  was  lovely,  and  the 
Corso  unusually  attractive.  Miles  of  superb  equipages 
followed  successively.  Bouquets  were  thrown  from 
carriage  to  carriage  until  sunset,  but  flour  succeeded 
after  dark.  1  noticed  among  the  most  elegant  equipages, 
that  of  a  nephew  of  the  present  Emperor  of  the  French, 
— four  bays  and  gold  liveries,  a  royal  turnout.  Also 
the  two  sons  of  Victor  Emmanuel,  with  a  modest  but 
elegant  turnout  of  one  pair  silver  liveries.  A  Mr. 


51 

Livingstone  of  New  York,  six  pair  of  bays.  At  night, 
the  masked  ball  was  said  to  have  been  the  best  given 
in  Florence  for  m  my  years.  I  found  the  crowd  im- 
mense on  the  promenade,  while  the  boxes  or  loges  were 
also  full.  Dancing  was  difficult,  owing  to  numbers. 
Music,  very  good.  The  effect  was  really  unique  and 
exhilarating.  Good  order  until  daylight,  when  the  last 
person  left.  I  had  an  invite  to  attend  at  two  boxes,  a 
Mrs.  Derby's,  of  Boston,  and  Mrs.  Crockett;  the  former 
through  Mrs.  Ward. 

Next  the  Palace  of  Prince  Demidoff.  The  palace, 
though  not  the  largest,  yet  I  believe  is  said  to  be,  by  the 
best  judges,  the  gem  of  all  European  palaces.  Its  sit- 
uation is  just  outside  the  walls  of  Florence,  and  sur- 
rounded by  grounds,  hot-houses  and  parks  of  commen- 
surate richness  and  extent.  To  obtain  ingress  to  this 
palace,  requires,  usually,  a  previous  application  of  two 
months,  but  through  the  influence  of  the  Italian  ladies 
to  whom  I  have  referred,  I  was  admitted.  My  good  for- 
tune in  this  respect,  was  most  remarkable,  for  I  am  told 
that  there  are  hundreds  of  Russian,  Italian  and  Sicilian 
nobility  resident  in  Florence,  who  have  in  vain  applied 
for  admission.  I  can  give  no  just,  nor  even  a  faint, 
description  of  the  treasures  of  this  palace.  Its  floors 
and  ceilings  are  of  Roman  mosaics  and  Gobelin 
tapestries.  Its  mantels  of  agate,  porphyry,  lapis-lazuli, 
and  malachite.  Its  ceilings  are  hung  with  superb 
paintings  by  Titian,  Paul  Veronese,  Rembrandt,  Van 
Dyke,  Leonard  da  Vinci,  and  others.  Its  roofs, 
especially  of  the  music  hall,  are  of  frescoes  and  gold. 
Its  rooms,  successively,  are  laden  with  gems,  articles 
of  vertu,  caskets,  silver  and  gold  services,  sets  of 
jewels  in  glass  cases,  pier  tables  of  Florentine  and 


52 

Eoman  mosaic,  malachite,  ete.,  etc.  Rooms  fitted  for 
Turkish  occupancy,  also  for  Greeks.  A  billiard  room 
unsurpassed  in  the  world,  the  cues  studded  with  jewels. 
One  room  filled  with  pipes  of  every  size,  age  and 
value.  One  filled  with  ancient  armor,  one  with 
paintings,  in  every  form  of  mosaic,  one  large  hall  of 
sculpture,  one  a  gallery  of  paintings.  Beside  this, 
every  room  having  its  gorgeous  chandeliers  and  its 
elaborate  furniture,  which  no  pen  can  describe.  After 
visiting  the  palace,  I  walked  over  the  grounds,  through 
the  hot- houses,  and  into  the  Greek  and  Catholic 
chapels  attached.  Also  into  the  Chinese  hall,  filled 
with  Chinese  antiquities.  We  passed  a  day  here,  and 
never  do  I  expect  to  see  the  same  amount  of  wealth 
within  four  walls  again.  No  crowned  head  of  Europe 
to-day,  has  anything  approaching  to  it.  To  visit  that 
palace,  would  amply  repay  one  for  the  expense  of  a 
voyage  from  the  United  States  to  Europe,  and 
back. 

I  will  now  return  to  the  day  upon  which  I  made  this 
detour  in  my  narrative.  After  visiting  the  square  of 
San  Marco,  at  Venice,  watching  the  flight  of  pigeons 
which  always  arrives  there  as  the  clock  strikes  two,  to 
be  fed,  I  purchased  eighteen  or  twenty  views  of  the 
city,  and  returned  to  the  hotel.  The  church  of  San 
Marco,  with  its  enduring  mosaics  within  and  without, 
of  gold  and  brilliant  colors,  which  defy  time,  its 
Byzantine  style,  render  it  a  most  imposing  and  won- 
derful relic.  The  scenes  portrayed  within  its  walls, 
upon  its  roofs,  domes  and  ceilings,  in  mosaic,  are  won- 
derful for  beauty  and  description.  Every  event  of  note 
in  our  Saviour's  life  is  there  portrayed  in  figures  as  large 
as  life. 


53 

27th  February.  This  day  I  visited  the  academy  of 
fine  arts,  with  its  galleries  of  paintings.  The  palace  of 
the  family  of  Givionelli,  where  one  is  shown  the  re- 
markable painting  of  Marino  Falieri  bidding  adieu  to 
his  family.  We  passed  to-day  the  palace  of  the  two 
Foscari,  those  of  Taglioni  (two  in  number),  the  once 
celebrated  danseuse,  the  house  where  Byron  lived 
when  here.  I  visited  the  church  where  are  the  tombs 
of  Canova  and  of  Titian,  each  wonderful  productions  in 
sculpture.  The  same  church  has  the  tomb  of  the  two 
Foscari  and  of  Rembrandt. 

21st  February.  To-day  I  left  Venice  in  company 
with  my  recent  traveling  companions,  the  English 
lady  and  daughter,  en  route  for  Paris,  by  rail.  At 
10  A.M.,  we  took  the  cars,  and  at  5  P.M.  reached 
Milan. 

March  1st.  Strolled  about  for  an  hour  or  two  in 
shops,  and  to  the  celebrated  cathedral,  which,  for  its 
peculiar  architecture,  surpasses  any  other  in  Europe. 
In  the  afternoon,  I  drove  to  the  Place  d'Armes,  and 
over  the  celebrated  drive  where  the  Milanese  are  all 
found  in  the  public  gardens  near  by,  and  \\here  the 
equipages  of  this  beautiful  city  roll  by,  each  laden 
with  its  freight  of  beauty  and  of  fashion.  I  have  never 
seen  a  road  so  attractive,  because  so  wide,  smooth  and 
with  a  double  row  of  arching  shade  trees  on  either 
hand. 

March  2d.  Having  seen  something  of  Milan,  and 
visited  the  galleries  of  paintings  and  the  palace  of  the 
King,  Victor  Emmanuel,  I  took  my  passage  again  per 
rail,  at  11  A.M.,  to  stop  at  Turin.  The  ride  in  the  cars 
is  exceedingly  attractive  and  agreeable,  as  you  run  over 
a  level  country,  through  many  ancient  villages  and 


54 

towns,  the  snow  crowned  Alps  close  to  you  on  the 
right,  which  separates  Piedmont  from  Savoy.  On  the 
left,  as  you  approach  Turin,  the  land  is  high,  and 
crowned  with  villas  and  summer  residences  of  this, 
hitherto,  Piedmontese.  but  now  Italian  capital.  We 
crossed  through  the  town  of  Magenta  also,  where  the 
recent  history  of  the  French  interposition  points  to 
the  renowned  field  of  Magenta. 

At  5  P.M.,  on  a  cold  raw  afternoon,  we  reached 
Turin,  and  having  accidentally  met  in  the  cars  two 
officers,  one  commanding  at  Naples,  and  just  return- 
ing also  from  the  siege  of  Gaeta,  the  other  having  a 
military  and  civil  commission,  I  took  a  carriage  with 
this  latter  for  his  residence  and  rny  hotel.  I  found 
the  Hotel  de  TEurope,  as  is  the  case  with  nearly  all  the 
best  hotels  in  the  middle  and  south  of  Europe,  in  a 
palace.  The  room  assigned  to  me  was  not  to  my  liking, 
because  it  was  on  the  third  floor;  but  I  was  told  that 
the  Senate  of  Italy  were  then  in  session,  and  that  most 
of  its  members  had  rooms  here,  which  had  completely 
filled  up  the  house.  The  dining-room  was  only  sur- 
passed by  that  of  the  hotel  where  I  now  am — the  Hotel 
du  Louvre.  Though  it  was  Sunday,  still  instead  of  going 
to  church,  I  went  to  picture  galleries,  the  royal  palace 
and  the  armory.  This  latter  is  the  best  in  the  world. 

In  this  armory  I  was  shown  a  lock  of  hair  from  the 
first  Napoleon,  also  the  sword  which  he  wore  at  the 
sharply  contested  field  of  Marengo. 

On  Monday,  the  4th  of  March,  I  left  the  hotel,  in- 
tending to  start  again  for  Paris,  but  as  my  trunks  were 
a  little  behind  time,  and  as  the  regulations  in  the  rail- 
way trains  are  very  severe,  1  was  obliged  to  return  to 
the  hotel  and  wait  another  day. 


55 

On  the  5th,  however,  at  6.30  P.M.,  we  left,  by  rail, 
for  the  foot  of  the  Alps.  At  half  past  eight,  we  ex- 
changed our  comfortable  car  for  a  diligence  and  twelve 
horses,  and  began  our  tedious  journey  over  the  Alps, 
by  the  pass  of  Mont  Cenis.  At  11  P.M.,  we  reached  the 
snow  line,  and  again  alighted  to  exchange  our  diligence 
on  wheels  for  one  upon  runners.  By  midnight,  we 
had  attained  such  an  altitude,  as  to  encounter  a  furious 
gale  of  wind  and  a  temperature  of  intense  cold.  The 
air  was  filled  with  dry  snow  blowing  in  drifts,  so  that 
one  could  not  look  to  windward.  Our  road  was  blocked 
up  with  snow,  and  we  continued  in  this  plight  until 
daylight,  when  we  reached  the  summit,  though  but  for 
the  labors  of  sixty  men  who  came  to  dig  us  out,  we 
would  have  been  there  a  week.  By  1  P.M.  of  the  6th, 
we  reached  a  house  to  dine  at  in  a  town  on  this  side 
the  Alps,  called  Lansleborg.  The  same  evening  we 
arrived  at  St.  Jean  de  Maurienne,  where  we  passed  the 
night,  and  took  the  cars  for  Paris  next  day,  say  March 
7th  at  6.20  A.M.  The  scenery  is  grand  by  this  route 
over  the  Alps,  but  I  object  to  snowdrifts. 

March  8th.  Having  passed  all  day  yesterday,  and 
all  ni^'ht  last  night  in  an  express  train,  \ve  reached 
Paris  this  morning,  at  6.30  o'clock.  Smoking  is  allowed 
in  these  cars,  and  I  found  it  very  unpleasant  to  be  shut 
up  with  smokers  on  a  cold  night.  A  carriage  here  con- 
veyed me  from  the  cliemin  defer,  via  the  Place  de  la 
Bastille,  through  rue  St.  Antoine  and  rue  Bivoli,  to  the 
"Grand  Hotel  de  1' Europe."  This  hotel,  like  Paris  it- 
self, has  no  rival  or  equal  in  all  this  hemisphere.  And 
here  I  think  'tis  useless  to  continue  my  narrative  of  a 
story  of  three  weeks.  The  Boulevards,  the  Tuilleries, 
the  Palais  Royal,  the  Gallery  of  the  Louvre,  the 


56 

Champs  Elysees,  Bois  de  Boulogne,  Hotel  des  Inva- 
lides,  Hotel  de  Cluny,  Hotel  de  la  Ville,  the  thousand 
spots  of  interest  here  one  must  visit  to  realize.  My 
friend  and  traveling  companion,  Mr.  Ward,  arrived 
here  on  Sunday  last  from  Eome,  (this  being  the  20th 
of  March),  and  we  have  secured,  through  Mr.  Russell 
Sturgis,  passage  per  Cunard  steamer,  "Persia,"  for 
America,  to  sail  on  the  30th  inst.  I  can  discern  in 
the  political  horizon  of  France  that  the  emperor  and 
the  armee  hold  a  despotic  sway,  however  much  H.  I.  M. 
may  make  it  palatable  to  the  people  in  other  respects. 
No  barriers  can  now  be  raised  in  Paris.  The  new 
Boulevard  runs  from  the  Place  Bastile  to  the  Bois  de 
Boulogne,  and  also  longitudinally  through  Paris.  The 
zouaves  are  unpopular  with  the  people,  and  a  wide  dif- 
ference exists  between  the  ruler  and  the  governed.  By 
a  French  paper  yesterday,  I  noticed  that  455  soldiers 
had  been  pardoned,  who  were  under  orders  for  pun- 
ishment for  offences,  besides  some  150  more  were  also 
to  be  released  ;  this  by  order  of  the  emperor,  at  the 
suggestion  of  the  Ministre  d'  Etat.  When  were  several 
hundred  citizens  pardoned  of  their  offences  ?  And  does 
not  this  take  the  form  of  catering  to  the  wishes  of  this 
powerful  body — the  army  of  France? 

Sunday,  23d  March.  After  a  stay  of  over  two  weeks 
here  in  Paris,  I  take  my  leave,  in  company  with  Mr. 
Ward  and  Lieut.  Col.  Eipley,  U.  S.  A.,  by  rail  for  Bou- 
logne, Folkstone  and  London.  We  reached  Boulogne 
at  5  P.M.,  where  after  passing  two  hours  for  the  steamer 
to  secure  a  suitable  tide,  we  crossed  the  Channel  and 
took  rail  at  Folkstone ;  reaching  London  at  11  P.M. 
The  scenery  through  France,  between  Paris  and  Bou- 
logne, does  not  compare  with  that  between  London 


57 

and  Liverpool,  presenting  neither  high  cultivation  nor 
a  thickly-settled  country.  March  29th.  To-day  at 
10  A.M.,  we  three  left  London  by  rail  for  Liverpool. 
A  beautiful  ride  of  seven  hours  it  is  too  ;  the  scenery 
more  than  counteracts  for  hours  in  the  cars.  Went 
to  the  Tower,  Westminster  Abbey,  through  Thames 
Tunnel,  to  the  new  Houses  of  Parliament,  drove 
through  Hyde  Park  and  visited  the  surroundings  of 
Buckingham  Palace,  St.  James  Park,  etc.,  etc.  We 
lived  at  Fenton's  Hotel,  in  St.  James'  Street,  had  our 
meals  in  our  dining-room  attached  to  our  parlor  and 
chambers  ;  the  best  living  in  a  hotel  I  have  ever  ex- 
perienced. The  sight  of  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  did  not 
impress  me  as  did  other  cathedrals  upon  the  continent, 
though  larger.  Beneath  this  church  one  is  shown  the 
tombs  of  Wellington  and  Nelson  among  others.  But 
the  tombs  of  the  illustrious  dead  at  Westminster,  ren- 
der that  church  or  abbey  a  spot  of  wonderful  interest. 
Kings,  queens,  those  who  were  great  as  statesmen, 
soldiers,  poets,  naval  and  remarkable  men  in  England's 
history,  lie  close  together  throughout  the  extent  of  this 
vast  pile.  At  5  P.M.  we  reached  Liverpool,  and  after 
staying  all  night  at  the  Adelphi  Hotel,  we  left  the  pier 
at  10  A.M.,  30th  March,  for  the  Cunard  steamer  "Per-* 
sia,"  lying  in  the  river.  In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  we 
were  on  board.  Mr.  Ward  and  myself  occupying  a 
state-room  together  and  Col.  Ripley  next  to  us.  At 
11  A.M.  we  sailed  with  110  passengers  for  New  York, 
via,  Cork  or  Queenstown.  At  9  A.  M.,  Sunday,  Blst. 
March,  we  arrived  at  Queenstown  and  sailed  same 
evening  at  four.  April  9th,  1861,  New  York  Hotel, 
New  York  City.  We  arrived  here  this  morning,  in 
eight  days  and  sixteen  hours  from  Cork,  and  nine  days 


58 

twenty  hours  from  Liverpool ;  one  of  the  best  if  not 
the  best  passage  ever  made  across  the  Atlantic.  We 
had  easterly  winds  daily,  often  strong,  making  fourteen 
to  sixteen  knots  an  hour.  Saw  no  ice,  though  we  ex- 
perienced snow  storms  and  very  cold,  foggy,  rough 
weather  on  the  banks.  Saw  no  ship  near  enough  to 
speak,  except  the  Cunard  steamer  "Europa,"'  the  second 
day  we  were  out,  and  the  New  York  packet-ship, 
"Chancellor," yesterday,  off  George's  Shoal.  We  had 
pleasant  passengers,  though  with  but  one  or  two  ex- 
ceptions they  were  not  remarkably  desirable  as  future 
acquaintances.  A  German  lady  and  her  brother  I  se- 
lected as  the  most  attractive — residents  of  Baltimore. 
Captain  Judkins,  who  commands  the  c 'Persia,'7  is  the 
Nestor  of  the  line,  and  will  soon  leave  her  to  take  the 
new  steamer  "Scotia."  His  excellent  seamanship  was 
attested  to  by  Mr.  Ward  in  a  brief  dinner  speech  at 
table,  upon  our  last  day  at  sea.  And  now  we  find  our- 
selves removed  from  the  noble  ship  which  has  borne  us 
over  the  Atlantic,  into  a  little  steam-tug  alongside,  and 
transported  with  our  baggage  over  to  Jersey  City, 
where  in  a  spacious  shed  or  building,  our  luggage  goes 
through  the  custom-house  ordeal;  which  in  my  case 
was  not  very  rigid.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  the  di- 
rect means  of  my  German  lady  friend  and  brother 
having  their  trunks  quietly  passed  without  examina- 
tion, which  delighted  them.  And  now  here  we  all 
separate,  who  for  days  have  been  so  pleasantly  brought 
together  on  board  ship.  I  took  a  vehicle  for  the  New 
York  Hotel,  as  my  traveling  companion  selected  it; 
though  I  usually  live  at  the  Astor  when  in  New  York. 
And  here,  therefore,  must  end  my  narrative. 


59 

After  having  journeyed  through  the  East  and  over 
Europe,  through  countries  with  no  governments,  and 
with  governments  the  most  absolute,  where  we  have  in 
our  youth  been  taught  to  look  with  reason  for  events 
the  most  sanguinary  and  destructive  to  human  in- 
terests; contrasting  then  the  beautiful  and  harmonious 
working  of  our  own  beloved  republic  with  the  proba- 
ble future  before  those  states  across  the  water;  I  find 
that  the  scale  has  turned,  and  that  while  these  Euro- 
pean and  eastern  nations  are  at  peace,  our  own  land 
is  rent  asunder  by  groundless  evils,  by  disloyalty  of 
its  people,  by  public  and  private  cupidity,  and  our  own 
entire  territory  is  likely  to  become  one  vast  theatre  of 
combat,  such  as  the  history  of  France  has  often  re- 
corded upon  its  pages — though  here  upon  a  vaster 
scale.  I  have  neither  the  room,  the  time  or  the  dispo- 
sition to  consider  farther  the  evils  which  cloud  the 
horizon  of  the  future  of  this  country;  but  I  trust  that 
they  may  be  averted  by  a  kind  Providence,  and  that 
our  nation  may  experience  its  mercy  rather  than  the 
visitation  of  its  displeasure.  Wishing  every  one  who 
journeys  from  China,  overland,  as  pleasant  a  trip  as  I 
have  had  myself,  I  conclude. 

H.  P.  B. 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
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WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
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WILL  INCREASE  TO  SO  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
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JAN  ii  1937 


LD  21-100m-8.'34 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


